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PostPosted: Wed Dec 29, 2010 1:01 am 
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1098cc
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Location: wasleys S.A.
here are the drawings for the mini and honda diffs.
Image
Image
Image
sorry about the pics but turn your computer on it's side to read them :D

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PostPosted: Wed Dec 29, 2010 7:29 am 
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848cc
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Location: OXFORDSHIRE
spectacular david ,thank you ,ill have a bash at it on my little lathe
Image
when i get some bits .


i agree with you ,when i machine gears and shafts ,once you can get under the case hardening its straightforwards .some times its easiest to grind the hardening off and then machine .


regards
robert :D

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PostPosted: Wed Dec 29, 2010 9:31 am 
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I recognise that lathe!! :lol:


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PostPosted: Wed Dec 29, 2010 12:48 pm 
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Joined: Fri Mar 19, 2004 6:19 pm
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Location: near Baulkham Hills, NSW
You can use ceramic inserts to hard turn stuff that's up to about RC62 hardness, no pre-grinding needed.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R. :mrgreen:


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PostPosted: Wed Dec 29, 2010 6:45 pm 
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drmini in aust wrote:
You can use ceramic inserts to hard turn stuff that's up to about RC62 hardness, no pre-grinding needed.



so true dr , but a bit of pre spending is ! ;)

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PostPosted: Thu Dec 30, 2010 12:17 am 
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1098cc
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ceramic inserts are only good if the surface of the metal is smooth. If it is a cast surface the ceramic will chip due to uneven cut.

There are plenty of carbide compound tool bits that are more suitable. I was give some that are used in a 14" slab cutter that is being used to machine the latest type of armour plate.

Most of the milling cutter inserts are better for impact and harder wearing than lathe inserts. Just have to make a holder to suit.

Same for drilling, a carbide ball end 2 flute end mill will punch thru any case hardening you will find on a mini where the best high speed drill will just melt.

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PostPosted: Fri Feb 25, 2011 9:48 pm 
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So whats the go? If i bought a honda ATB and got it all machined will it still be cheaper than a mini ATB?


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PostPosted: Fri Feb 25, 2011 10:15 pm 
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david rosenthal wrote:
ceramic inserts are only good if the surface of the metal is smooth. If it is a cast surface the ceramic will chip due to uneven cut.

There are plenty of carbide compound tool bits that are more suitable. I was give some that are used in a 14" slab cutter that is being used to machine the latest type of armour plate.

Most of the milling cutter inserts are better for impact and harder wearing than lathe inserts. Just have to make a holder to suit.

Same for drilling, a carbide ball end 2 flute end mill will punch thru any case hardening you will find on a mini where the best high speed drill will just melt.

David there are some pretty hi-tech ceramics now, with reinforcing whiskers in em.. they handle interrupted cuts, eg milling.
see http://www.greenleafglobalsupport.com/w ... Grades.pdf

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R. :mrgreen:


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PostPosted: Fri Feb 25, 2011 10:36 pm 
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CARTER_GT wrote:
So whats the go? If i bought a honda ATB and got it all machined will it still be cheaper than a mini ATB?


probably not - if you were to pay someone to do the machining the costs would add up quickly. This is the kind of job you only do if you can do it yourself


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PostPosted: Fri Feb 25, 2011 10:39 pm 
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We can scratch that idea off the list then. Probably best to stay with a mini ATB anyway because if you break a crown wheel you can jusy order another instead of paying all that money for remachining again


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