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 Post subject: No Spark
PostPosted: Sat Feb 26, 2011 1:29 pm 
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848cc
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Location: blue mountains, nsw
have got the replacement 1100 into my van,go to start it & it turns over fine.

i find out it has no spark,replace plugs & try a different coil,still no spark.this motor started easily & ran well in the morris 1100 before i took it out.

any ideas of what to do are greatly appreciated.

many thanks in advance
jayson


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PostPosted: Sat Feb 26, 2011 2:31 pm 
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How'd u check no spark? Are u 100% that's what it is or is the carb a little fuel starved.

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PostPosted: Sat Feb 26, 2011 2:47 pm 
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earthed no. 1 spark plug to the head & there was no sign of spark at all.

only thing different on this motor from when it was running in the morris is that i`ve changed to 1 1/2 carby.

thanks for your reply


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sat Feb 26, 2011 3:03 pm 
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K the experts will have a better idea of what u can look at.

If it was me & while ur waiting u can try remove ur dizzy cap & check ur points aren't fouled up and ur getting spark there.

Don't start the car just the ignition on... & use something I've never had a problem using a screwy & separate ur points when they contact u should get spark. If not try a peice of very fine emry paper & lightly clean up the points & try again.

That's my two bits good luck

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PostPosted: Sat Feb 26, 2011 3:08 pm 
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Quick Check here is to take the dissy cap off and have an assistant crank the engine a couple of times. Look at the points to see if they are sparking.

i) If they are then the problem is on the HT side. Take the coil lead out of the dissy and see if you have spark here, if OK, check you rotor button is in and that it is OK. Check the little carbon button is in the dissy cap. Check the cap is not tracking, next to check is the HT leads themselves.

ii) If you have NO spark at the points, you may not have 12V to the coil or the lead between the coil and the dissy is crook (missing?). Sometimes ignition switches also play up and can do this in several ways. One way is it will give you 12V in the Run position, but not in the Start position so check both.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sat Feb 26, 2011 4:28 pm 
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thanks for the help fiji,i`ll have to check the points.

greatly appreciated gt,will go through it tomorrow had enough for today.lead between coil & dissy is there.

cheers guys
jayson


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Feb 27, 2011 7:01 am 
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does the lead from the dissy go to positive or negative on the coil ?

stupid me forgot to mark the wires before i took them off.

jayson


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PostPosted: Sun Feb 27, 2011 7:04 am 
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76van wrote:
does the lead from the dissy go to positive or negative on the coil ?

stupid me forgot to mark the wires before i took them off.

jayson


If you have an Alternator (-ve Earth) the -ve of the coil is connected to the dissy.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Feb 27, 2011 7:06 am 
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thanks gt,i at least got that right.

cheers
jayson


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Feb 27, 2011 7:45 am 
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Got a test lamp or a multimeter or something like that?

Check you have +ve volts on the +ve of the coil with the key ON and also in the START positions.

If that is OK, then put the car in gear and rock it until you can see the points OPEN. Check again as above, but on the -ve of the coil, you should read around 12 Volts (to earth).

Do the same again as above, however get the points CLOSED. Take out of gear. Check on the -ve of the coil and you should have next to NO volts to earth.

This will prove the power to the coil, the coil and the points.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Feb 27, 2011 8:15 am 
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thanks again gt,will go through it all when it stops raining up here & report back on how i go.

cheers
jayson


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Feb 27, 2011 4:47 pm 
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ok have been out with the test lamp.

"ii) If you have NO spark at the points, you may not have 12V to the coil or the lead between the coil and the dissy is crook (missing?). Sometimes ignition switches also play up and can do this in several ways. One way is it will give you 12V in the Run position, but not in the Start position so check both."

no spark at the points,have power in both run & start position.

"Check you have +ve volts on the +ve of the coil with the key ON and also in the START positions."

all ok

"If that is OK, then put the car in gear and rock it until you can see the points OPEN. Check again as above, but on the -ve of the coil, you should read around 12 Volts (to earth."

nothing at all on the test lamp

"Do the same again as above, however get the points CLOSED. Take out of gear. Check on the -ve of the coil and you should have next to NO volts to earth"

have no power here

cheers
jayson


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Feb 27, 2011 11:39 pm 
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Quote:
"If that is OK, then put the car in gear and rock it until you can see the points OPEN. Check again as above, but on the -ve of the coil, you should read around 12 Volts (to earth."

nothing at all on the test lamp


Hey Jayson,

It seems the problem is between your coil and the distributor. Not the actual coil, just between it to well the plug at this stage. Funny enough I had the same problem recently and I have a hunch you have the same problem. The condenser. If you aren't getting any light on your test lamp on the negative side of the coil it means that it's going to ground and that could be a faulty condensor or the wire leading to the points or part of the points are grounding against the distributor. If you put the car to ignition then manually push the points apart with a screwdriver they should spark as well, that is another way to test, and also another is to have a friend put the car to start then check the points if they are sparking, if no friend, and i'm not sure if anyone else does this but I do, make sure your car is in neutral with the handbrake on of course, and bridge the connection in the engine bay with a screwdriver that way you can check it solo, but there should be no need to do that anyway if you have a test lamp and use the other methods, but I still do it because sometimes I find it works better. Anyway i'm putting my money on either the condenser or something inside the distributor is grounding out before the points. Good luck mate.

Cheers, Sam


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Feb 28, 2011 6:52 am 
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76van wrote:
"If that is OK, then put the car in gear and rock it until you can see the points OPEN. Check again as above, but on the -ve of the coil, you should read around 12 Volts (to earth."

nothing at all on the test lamp

cheers
jayson


Your coil is karput.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Feb 28, 2011 7:29 am 
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Location: blue mountains, nsw
thanks for the reply sam,hope it`s something simple like that.

thanks gt,this coil ran fine on the 1275,could the motor going bang have cooked the coil ?

i have the coil from the 1100 motor i`ll give that a go.

edit: further to the above,when i have the dissy wire on the coil there is no power at -ve on the coil but when i remove the dissy wire i have power.

many thanks
jayson


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