hey there ppls..

now i have heard that it is a no no to convert your 1275 heads to unleaded, cause it would weaken it to much, and there for it would be more vulnerable to cracking etc... is this true?

cheers

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wot is involved in converting it to unleaded?
can I do it to my 1100?

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...its leaking oil... and thats a good sign!
It lets me know that I havent run out yet. -Tzi 4-9-04

Hardened exhaust valve seats are installed. As for making it weak, I dno, seams to be done all the time, so I would say it's fine. When I had the mokes head recoed, I got em to put hardened exhaust seats in, but I aint had it on the road, so I can't tell you if anything has happened because of it.

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No problem fitting unleaded seats to a stock 1275 head. But it DOES limit your valve sizes- 29.4 exhaust is about the limit, as is a 35.6 intake valve.

I have 1 head with inserts on my wife's 1293 motor, has 33mm intakes ans 29.4 exhausts, but its been run only for an hour or so- not in the car yet.

I also did a 12G202 head last year with 33mm intakes, 27mm exhausts and unleaded seats- it's on a 1220 Sprite motor and he's had no problems.

It's important to fit them properly- ideally they should be shrunk in, rather than pressed, and definitely not bashed in with a BFH.

I use .003-.004" interference on Rover 1275 inserts and .002-.003" on the 998 inserts. Best place to buy them is MiniSpares. It is a machine shop job to fit them- mine were shrunk in with liquid nitrogen while the head was warmed up a bit by an oxy torch..

Really though I'd rather fit bigger (31mm) exhausts and run Flashlube... as I do in MY car.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

Yep, just use good ol flashlube. I just squirt it into the tank, but ya can also get inline kits for em.

Flashlube will also keep the inside of your engine clean, it's good stuff!

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Not only does Flashlube keep things clean and the valve seats shiny, but it lubes the inlet giudes. This is important these days, as a good percentage of `petrol' is paint thinners (toulene) and similar!
Unleaded fuel has SFA lubricating properties.
With Flashlube your plugs still burn clean...

1L of Flashlube costs $16 and does 1,000L of fuel. So it costs you extra 1.6c/Ltr of fuel.
Compare this with the cost of that `Valvemaster' shite, which fills your spark plugs, valves and ports with red crud..

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

So - let me get this right: You don't have to convert to unleaded; just use ULP and add Flashlube at the recommended rate into your tank when you fill up?

Where can you buy Flashlube?

hey i find that their is no need to change it to unleaded. we run our clubbies on optimax or BPsynergy just use high oucain fuels

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1993 Rover Mini
Autobarn show team

1ml per litre is the ratio. Thats 40c per tank (25litres). Just squirt into you tank. Ya can buy the stuff from autobahn, autopro. My local supercheap sells the inline kits, but dont sell the stuff by itself for some stupid reason.

As has been said, it not only replaces the lead.

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Thanks Guys,
I'll give it a try.

Do people use ULP or Premium ULP in their minis?

I'm running a worked engine; extractors; weber; electronic (Honda) ignition but don't know the compression ratio

I have had my head fitted with hardened seat and No a problem. I have had engine running for 14 months and all ok. I still use the upper cylinder lube but i use Moreys instead of flash lube. I have been using moreys for the last 9 years in both my mini and Then in my 96 EL falcon. It really works as the plug are clean when pulled out of either motor.

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I've Got One
You've Got One
We've All Got One
What Is It



A Bloody Mini

1970 Mini K, 1380cc, 1.75 HIF SU, 30 70 Cam, 2" Zorts
1969 Mini K, Stock Standard and Orginal. (Slow as Hell)

whats the cost on the no-brainer kit? (inline flashlube)
does it work out any more expensive?
I just wanna be able to run premium.. cos it has an octane rating similar to that of leaded.

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...its leaking oil... and thats a good sign!
It lets me know that I havent run out yet. -Tzi 4-9-04

I was running PULP, until I realised that LRP was cheaper. I have the head modified in mine to accept unleaded.

The original plan for LRP was to be PULP with additives anyway. So i dont see any reason to pay extra for PULP when LRP is cheaper.

Stoopid aint it.

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"He's always been a dickhead, He always is a dickhead, He will always be a dickhead. So stop complaining when he acts like one."

I was told that LRP did some fooked up things to your car, so I use PULP. (Plus phil need to get in contact with you there is a mini run on sunday with the jag club)

Most PULP is 95 octane, but Mobil 8000 and BP Ultimate are 98.
I use both the latter, but they aren't as available as the 95. Reason is the BP is only made in Kwinana refinery, WA, and the Mobil 8000 in Melbourne.

LRP is supposed to be around 95 octane but seldom is. A test carried out 2 years ago found it varied from 87 to 93. And the stuff they put in it clags up the plugs, valves etc. Also they have been talking about phasing LRP out. PULP is cleaner.
Situation is a bit like BP Zoom 50 outboard fuel of years ago- you are never sure if the refinery or distributor put the right amount into it...

I get Flashlube from Autobarn in a 1L bottle for $16. The cap holds 7.5ml so I add a cap per 8L of fuel to each tank.You can get it in 500ml and bigger sizes too.

Graham Russell runs his dyno motors on PULP 98, (Mobil 8000) unless you bring your own race fuel. Reckons LRP is shite and I agree.

<EDIT> If you run PULP without either hardened seats, or an additive, you WILL damage the head. We ran my son's 1132 Clubbie with a rebuilt head and straight unleaded for 6 months, it pulled lumps of cast iron out of the seats. With Flashlube this doesn't happen, the seats stay clean and shiny.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.