hey guys , thanks for all the input , i have my problem , me and my father in law strip the car and found a leek in the breakline , that wasn't all we found , we also found major rust where the driver seat is , the leek has been ongoing i think from the rust damage , and everytime i step on the break it squirt out like a fountain , from a pin hole puncture ....

how should i repair this , first i need to fix the rust , i can see the ground from the driver seat ! the size of a 10 cent coin ... please help me fix this ! cant drive the dam thing cause of the breaks.

guys can u show how to upload images ... i shaw upload images of the damage so you guy can see what im talking about ...

How to post pictures
http://www.ausmini.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=10405

For the brake pipe I'm not sure if the mini suppliers have them (I would guess they do) but I just get the local brake place to make them up. Assuming your talking about the steel pipe running from the front to the back?

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67' Matic
73' S

Not intending to come across as critical of either of you, but on a cycling forum (yeah I know, that makes me a bit odd around here) that I frequent, while not being a forum rule, it's considered polite when making a post such as the one above for the poster to declare if they have any involvement or not with a suggested manufacturer,supplier/shop/etc. People don't really give a stuff either way, and it helps stave off potentially unsavoury diversions such as the above.

Now, for the OP; I agree with others - if you are not confident in your ability to address the brake problem, DO NOT DRIVE THE CAR ANYWHERE. It is not worth the risk to yourself or others. If you can't find somebody capable who can drop around to help fix it for you, get it towed to a specialist.

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You're only supposed to blow the BLUDDY DOORS OFF!!

Good advice

On brakes: Yes, take the car (or just the piping even, if you can get it out) to a specialist (I know it's obvious, but don't drive it :). But it might be an idea to ask around to find out who to go to - either locally or ask here for good references.

I once had my brake lines made up professionally because I wanted a quality job, and decided against buying a line flaring tool and doing it myself. For the two lines that run from the master cylinder to the bias valve they charged me $80 and cut up my old ones for parts. Once I put them in place, I went for a short drive and then stopped to check the level, and I'd already lost a noticeable amount of fluid. The flares they had made were leaking like Julian Assnage, and it took me another hour or so to file them down to shape and re-bleed the system. If I were to do it again, I'd make my own lines up. If you're paying a professional, you want a professional job. I should have asked around to see who else could do the job.

On your floor pan: Floor pan rust is very common in minis. So, where is your rust? If it's in the centre of the floor, that makes things difficult. I had a few gaps around the edges at the welds. Since it was on a corner, I just removed the rust (on both sides) and put a bit of putty in to seal it up. Of course, if the holes are too big, putty just won't work.

You can buy replacement floor pans, but these require a bit of effort to put in place. I've often wondered if you could use a fibreglass repair kit on a floorpan hole, but I've never tried. The bottom line is, whatever you do, remove all the rust before patching it up.

A picture would be good to see what's happening.

Hi Lee,

Firstly, address the brake issue. If it was a simple leak as you say, fix the leak and it would be a good idea to service the M/C. No real need to buy a new M/C unless it's completely worn out (doubtful but once you pull it apart it will be easy to spot if it's shagged or not) and a new kit usually fixes it up. Then fix the rust.

Buy a good service book and check it out, it's not rocket science. BUT might I suggest (as others here have suggested) that if you are unsure of anything please take it to a mechanic to have a look at the brake issue. It's not worth risking it.

PM me, you don't live far from me, I can come over one night this week to have a poke around if you want. I can at least advise you on best course of action.

Cheers

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Lillee - 1969 Morris Mini K

PM me, you don't live far from me, I can come over one night this week to have a poke around if you want. I can at least advise you on best course of action.

Cheers[/quote]

Now , thats what i like about Ausmini, offering to help those out that are trying to learn
about these great little cars.

if it's the main brake line that goes from front to rear, it's a major pain - both subframes need to come out to get to it. I'd be putting it on a trailer and taking it to a mini mechanic. They'd have it done in a couple of hours, whereas you'd take a week to do it yourself (not joking - it's a real pain in the ass)

Leek
Leak

Breaks
Brakes

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- Simon -

lol Molina

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Lillee - 1969 Morris Mini K

Yeah this is exactly how I learnt, from Ausmini

As the old saying goes "us mini guys/gals got to stick together"

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Lillee - 1969 Morris Mini K

True, but if rest of it is sound, then the small section that is causing grief can be replaced with couplings either side, done that a few times. Save a heap of $$$$

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i spend all day yesterday trying to repair the damage but it a failure , so i have decide to tow it to padstow and get it repair by a professional , i told it going to be a big job case the rear subframe has to be taken off so the new main breakline can be fitted ...

no car , and no money , i wonder how much its going to cost to repair !

thanks for all your help guys

Your going to tow it with no brakes?

I dont want to sound rude, but perhaps an old classic that requires constant work, maintenance and money is not the perfect every day car for you. Hyundai Excel's are going cheap these days.

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http://www.youtube.com/user/Hanras