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PostPosted: Sun Mar 27, 2011 8:55 am 
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Hi Guys, wanting to change my rockers today, however when I do it, do I have to loosen all head bolts off? Or can I just do the rears that hold it down in the correct order?

I don't exactly want to end up leaks from the head gasket on there at the moment, from being disturbed. It has head gasket sealant on it, when I put it down only recently on the side of the road on my trip, so am scared I will crack the seal if I have to lift all head bolts??

Is it ok just to lift the back ones? Obviously I Will re-torque the whole lot again once the new rockers are on...

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Bluey-1973 Clubby - 1330, high lift, big cam, 7 port madness in progress..

Gumby-1978 Minivan, British Racing Green - 1310, high lift, mild cam, enlarged porting and chamber shape with big valve head, supercharged build in ever slow progress!


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PostPosted: Sun Mar 27, 2011 9:19 am 
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That's what I do. As long as nothing moves then the gasket will re-seat in the same place.

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PostPosted: Sun Mar 27, 2011 9:59 am 
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Mick wrote:
That's what I do. As long as nothing moves then the gasket will re-seat in the same place.


so you just lift the back ones?

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Bluey-1973 Clubby - 1330, high lift, big cam, 7 port madness in progress..

Gumby-1978 Minivan, British Racing Green - 1310, high lift, mild cam, enlarged porting and chamber shape with big valve head, supercharged build in ever slow progress!


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PostPosted: Sun Mar 27, 2011 10:03 am 
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Lockie91 wrote:
Mick wrote:
That's what I do. As long as nothing moves then the gasket will re-seat in the same place.


so you just lift the back ones?

Yeah, then retorque them. And then loosen the lot 1/4 turn- 1 bolt at a time and retorque in the right order.
I've done it 6 times or more and got away with it.
Do it when motor is cold. Then adjust the rockers.

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PostPosted: Sun Mar 27, 2011 11:37 am 
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drmini in aust wrote:
Lockie91 wrote:
Mick wrote:
That's what I do. As long as nothing moves then the gasket will re-seat in the same place.


so you just lift the back ones?

Yeah, then retorque them. And then loosen the lot 1/4 turn- 1 bolt at a time and retorque in the right order.
I've done it 6 times or more and got away with it.
Do it when motor is cold. Then adjust the rockers.


awesome, thought so. Thanks Kev and Mick. Your help is much appreciated. :wink:

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Bluey-1973 Clubby - 1330, high lift, big cam, 7 port madness in progress..

Gumby-1978 Minivan, British Racing Green - 1310, high lift, mild cam, enlarged porting and chamber shape with big valve head, supercharged build in ever slow progress!


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PostPosted: Sun Mar 27, 2011 11:59 am 
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Ahh lockie im the one missing from the carter family in the middle photo :cry: :cry: :cry:

Cool diorama though

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PostPosted: Sun Mar 27, 2011 12:25 pm 
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Bubbacluby wrote:
Ahh lockie im the one missing from the carter family in the middle photo :cry: :cry: :cry:

Cool diorama though


:lol: lol yea, its a real shame you couldn't be there, managed to get everyone around for a quick photo b4 I left that day... :wink:

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Bluey-1973 Clubby - 1330, high lift, big cam, 7 port madness in progress..

Gumby-1978 Minivan, British Racing Green - 1310, high lift, mild cam, enlarged porting and chamber shape with big valve head, supercharged build in ever slow progress!


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PostPosted: Sun Mar 27, 2011 12:35 pm 
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Location: Under the bonnet son!
Unlike every other job in a mini engine bay, at least this one doesn't require the radiator removed, the engine out, and or the gearbox taken off...

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PostPosted: Sun Mar 27, 2011 12:43 pm 
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Mick wrote:
Unlike every other job in a mini engine bay, at least this one doesn't require the radiator removed, the engine out, and or the gearbox taken off...


on that note, I'm going to have to replace the speedo cable.. its the next job after the smash...

Correct me if I'm wrong, but it looks like the only way to be able to get the bottom attached without taking the engine out is to take the LHS wheel, hub and driveshaft out all together, and then you can reach through where the driveshaft goes to do the cable up??

Is this the only way... there's no way my hand or a pair of good pilers to do it up will fit in there otherwise.. :(

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Bluey-1973 Clubby - 1330, high lift, big cam, 7 port madness in progress..

Gumby-1978 Minivan, British Racing Green - 1310, high lift, mild cam, enlarged porting and chamber shape with big valve head, supercharged build in ever slow progress!


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PostPosted: Sun Mar 27, 2011 4:29 pm 
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Location: Under the bonnet son!
Speedo caqble is a down the back of the engine job. You should be able to get at it, its tough with twin SUs however. Follow the cable down with your hand until you feel a large round knurled nut, then unscrew.

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PostPosted: Sun Mar 27, 2011 4:34 pm 
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i undid my cable by hand i went from the top . but it did give the locking nut on the gearbox a tap with a flatblade screwdriver from under neith to release a bit of the tension.so then it just undid with ease had trouble getting the new one to start tho. but if you can do the head on the side of the road you should be sweet.


cheers dan.


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PostPosted: Sun Mar 27, 2011 6:22 pm 
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One trick I found when doing this is to make sure none of the valves are open before undoing the rockers. Roll it in 4th until all valves are closed (none of them are on any cam lobes).

I've had problems when trying to put new rockers on when the cam is engaged and the valves are open...

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PostPosted: Sun Mar 27, 2011 6:33 pm 
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Lillee wrote:
One trick I found when doing this is to make sure none of the valves are open before undoing the rockers. Roll it in 4th until all valves are closed (none of them are on any cam lobes).

I've had problems when trying to put new rockers on when the cam is engaged and the valves are open...

There is no position where no valves are partly open, but yes you can minimise their lift.
I just loosen all the adjusting screws first before fitting, then it doesn't matter. :wink:

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R. :mrgreen:


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PostPosted: Sun Mar 27, 2011 6:44 pm 
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Mick wrote:
Speedo caqble is a down the back of the engine job. You should be able to get at it, its tough with twin SUs however. Follow the cable down with your hand until you feel a large round knurled nut, then unscrew.


Yeah easier said than done.. :lol: I can get my hand down there no worries, its that its so tight I can't budge it by fingers...

I've always when fitting my engines used a pair of pliers to nip the cable nut up, and well even though I haven't put this engine in, whoever did, used a pair of pliers..

So if you can explain to me how to make my hands a pair of pliers, that'll be awesome :P :lol:

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Bluey-1973 Clubby - 1330, high lift, big cam, 7 port madness in progress..

Gumby-1978 Minivan, British Racing Green - 1310, high lift, mild cam, enlarged porting and chamber shape with big valve head, supercharged build in ever slow progress!


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PostPosted: Sun Mar 27, 2011 6:46 pm 
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when I have one and I can't get the nut undone, I undo the 7/16 bolt and take the boss off the gearbox. Just clean all the gunk off it first


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