On Sunday afternoon we put the 850 together, using the same block, gearbox and radiator support as we took out of the car three years ago,
finally, block rebored, flat top pistons, head decked to flat.
Putting the powertrain into the car using an engine crane and wire sling.
It did drop off as it was being lowered in. We recovered it. the hooks on the wire rope were repositioned.
Made the mistake of not having the car level so when it was relifted it would not clear the firewall below the rear bar of the subframe.
That mistake rectified, car on the flat. Engine fitted into the subframe.
But for some reason the engine mounts will not line up. Can get the drivers side in but the passenger side underneath the radiator is 1cm above the two holes. Can get the front bolt on the drivers side in, but the other side is still 1cm out.
Have tried to rock it, no change.
Have fitted the engine steady bar temporarily.
Will the thing settle in. Hasn't in the last two days.

Thinking, do I undo it, lift it up part way and then drop it in and hopefully the engine mount will compress?
Do I pull the thing out and fit the old mounts which will give way in some months time. Lets face it the power of a flat top 850 is too much to handle.
My brother, the unfortunate owner is thinking of pulling his hair out.
Now I used to pull out these engines in the late 70's using a crude tripod, 2 tonne lever wire puller using the same sling (an old wire tow rope that is permanently kinked into a sling for a mini powertrain).
Never had this problem before.
Or do I pull it out, drop the subframe out and then fit the powertrain in?
The gearbox is a later full synchro 1100K/Cooper S type with the remote change, it hasn't been changed by us.
Maybe I should loosen the two bolts holding the radiator mount frame, there might be enough play to get it in.
Sunday, we attack it again, the forums advice would be appreciated.

Did you buy new mounts? Sounds like it..
Genuine Rover ones are not too bad to fit. They are more expensive though.

Aftermarket `captive nut' ones are too thick. Motor won't sit down in subby properly.
Quinton Hazell ones are well made but the holes in 1 plate are 4mm out compared to the other plate- gives same prob as being too thick (see above).

You pays your money and makes your choice.. I milled the holes in my Quinton Hazells so they fit now.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

i bought non genuine ones and they took a bit of forcing to get in but they did fit. i put the passenger side in first then located one of the passenger holes (cant remember exactly which one) and used a screw driver to direct the other into place. engine mounts were bolted to the engine first i think

I think they are the QH ones. I will look at the old invoice.
I was thinking that I should have bought the captive nut ones, but from what you say, I was better off not doing it.
I don't like the idea of elongating the 2 mount holes but as you have done it I don't feel my view is correct.
After all, the 850 doesn't have all that power.

QH ones have been made wrong for years. It is not a recent phenomenon.
You would think they might have got them right by now.

I have my 2 slotted QH ones under the 1412 stroker, it has 112ft/lb of torque and nothing has moved, they work fine.

[edit] here's how much I had to slot the QH holes to make them the same dimensions as BMC/BL/Rover ones- I have since tack welded nuts into them (not shown).


re the captive nut ones, I have found their threads strip easy. Then it takes an angle grinder to cut the bolt head off & get the motor out...

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

Yeap, that's what I do. Sometimes I need to put a G clamp under the subfram rail and on to the clutch over-thrown nuts just to pull it down that last bit. Make sure the 2 long bolts on the bracket under the radiator to gearbox are loose until you get all mounting bolts in.

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I have probably heard more stories about making these fit than any other job on a mini. I think the most inventive (?) was straps over the engine, shackled to a hoop concreted in the floor (no idea what that was for) then a jack under the subframe .....

Yep, it is not a fun job.I got mounts from miniskirt. It took us two days but we finally got it in. I ended up using a screwdriver once the holes were close to get the bolts in. Pig of a job!

The bolts were fitted after easing off the radiator support bracket, pushing down on the radiator and using two different sizes of phillips screwdrivers to lever the last few mm.
But the drivers side universal was wedged out of alignment and eventually it was freed.
Will reinstall the universal after pulling out the drivers side wheel and suspension.
Score so far, Mini 3 us nil.

Thanks Dr and others for the advice.