Might just have to take you up on that! I'm on the road tomorrow, back in the city I used to live so will drop by a place I've used before, see if I can get any more sense out of them. If not, I may be in touch

I guess I'm not understanding some of this thread size stuff. The block thread is 5/8 UNC, and it measures 5/8" by my tired eye, so how can you cut a 5/8" thread from a 3/8? It's smaller! Also the filter housing end is 1/4 BSP, but looks more like 1/2 to me....

Think I'll stick to my day job.....

BSP and NPT threads are sized not by their actual diameter, but the ID of the pipe they are used on.
So, a 1/4" BSP thread is actually about .515" diameter.

Same with 3/8 BSP, it's about 1mm bigger than 5/8".

As for thread pitch, 3/8 BSP is 19TPI, and 5/8 UNF is 18 TPI. Very close.

So, I can turn the 3/8 BSP down about 1mm to 5/8" diameter, run a 5/8 UNF die down it in the lathe and the result is flawless. None of the BSP threads remain.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

I dont want to be a nay sayer but it seems like alot of mucking around for something so simple. Just fit another pipe back on, if you want one ill send you one, I have about 800 of them.

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Have a Nice Day.
If already having a nice day please disregard.

Pay dirt! On a bit of a tip off from a mate at work I stopped off at an old school engineering/hydraulic shop after work. Place closed up but the boys were out the back having a yak.
Showed them the pipe, specifically the block end and he says no, not available off the shelf but "we'll just take a 3/8 BSP and cut it back to 5/8 UNC...no worries". Then gave me all the parts to take home so I could measure the exact length of hose. Including a 90 degree bend to decide if I want to come straight off the block or turn. He's on the beers list




Main reason for me is I have a machined alloy filter head with no pressure valve in it, and the thread to take the oil pipe is further away from the block exit than standard. I could TRY straightening the standard pipe to gain some length but then the dizzy comes into play. Secondary reason if I'm honest is aesthetics.

Just wondering on what filter head you are using.

Post a pic of your hose when you get it done and the suppliers info as I need to get one made up

Cheers

B

I hepe he makes it 5/8 UNF, not UNC- or it won't fit.....

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

Whoops, yep, typo. Threads on the brain. He has the banjo bolt so no problem there.

Will do Bernard. Will take a pic of the filter head tomorrow. I actually got it off an ausmini member but I forget who.
Just need to faff about and decide if I want to use the 90 degree turn. I see the doc's goes straight out and across the dizzy but I still have a vacuum unit which is kinda in the way. The 90 degree bend might take the hose right across the top of the dizzy stalk.

Thanks

Right angle out of the block would be the best option, when I priced up the bits to do the right angel set up where very exspensive..

Ta B

Filter head:


Right angle:


Not 100% sure yet about putting the right angle in there - because the filter end is kinda far out from the block (on either the aftermarket or the original) the hose would probably rest/rub against the vacuum unit. Not ideal. The alternative is go straight, but then need to run it right out over the vacuum, and end up with quite a tight angle back at the filter.
Any ideas are welcome...[/i]

The right angle connects to the block and a straight to the filter is that what you where planning.

Thanks for the pic of the filter housing.

Yup. Need to find a bit of garden hose to find the best route


Actually had a thought about the vacuum on the dizzy.....could always just spin the dizzy 180 degrees.....

I would pull the dizzy, then turn the dizzy drive shaft a tooth or two, and rotate dizzy body to suit, this will put the vacuum can in a better position.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

Doing some browsing in regards to the oil pipe.
I wanted to confirm that 1/2" oil hose is fine to run instead of a standard oil pipe or braided hose?

I have spare hose and fittings at home from previous oil cooler plans and was wondering if I could just chop it up and run it with no problems??

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Tim

I would not rely on a bit of `oil hose' and a couple of clamps, do it properly with the Pirtek bits I listed above. If your unspecified pressure hose bursts all the engine's lifeblood is gone.

The Pirtek return line hose pictured is rated at 500psi. And it's practically kinkproof.
edit] the end fittings are 1/2" BSP so they also fit onto a 13 or 9 row cooler. Just make an extra hose...

Hose looks like this:

pic take on GR's engine dyno.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

The fittings I have are 1/2" bsp push on fittings from enzed. They'd be the same as pirtek type wouldn't they?

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Tim