Has anyone had a Petronix Ignition module fail on them?

I just fitted an MSD Blaster 2 Ignition Coil today to replace the GT 40. Im running a LU142A Petronix Ignition module, which is about 6yrs old.

I took the car out for a drive today to ensure that it was still working for the cruise tomorrow, I was out for approx 45mins, as I was about to drive the car back into the shed it failed. No spark at all.

Ive fitted the GT40 coil back in with it still not starting. Ive also confirmed I have 12v at the Ign coil.

It can really only be the Petronix Module.

Did the MSD Blaster 2 coil kill it??

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http://www.youtube.com/user/Hanras

Woah, am I seeing things? Must be overtired..

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You're so square
Baby I don't care

That MSD Coil draws better than 20 amps when the battery rises above 13.7 Volts. The coil resistance on the MSD 2 is only 0.7 Ohms.

Which Petronix module is it? is there a rating on the current carrying capacity or a minimum coil resistance? You may have exceeded its current carrying/ heat dissipation capability.

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SooperDooperMiniCooperExpertEngineering

All garage work involves equal measures of enthusiasm, ingenuity and a fair degree of irresponsibility.

I think you've nailed it here Mick. Off the top of my head, the coil needs to be minimum 1.0 ohms.

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You are 100% correct Petronix, Britparts, Hotspark and My Brand Ignition Kits are designed to replace Points in older car systems. They are designed to work with Std Coils so no other modifications will need to be made. MSD coils and the like draw Much more current than a std Coil as they are low resistance coils that is where the Higher output comes from. The higher the current draw the bigger the spark on the output side. Unfortunately I can only say Bad luck you have blown it as they are not designed to handle such load.

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DID I MENTION THAT I AM THE BEST SUPPLIER FOR MINI ELECTRICAL PARTS AND REPAIRS?
"Let us remove your "SHORTS"

Yeah I even surprised myself....


Im running the Ignitor Ver 1 unit, I was sure I looked into the primary winding resistance and though it was ok, perhaps I was mistakenly looking at the Ignitor Ver II unit....

Ignitor I is designed for use with Flame-Thrower® 40,000 volt coil which comes in 1.5 or 3.0 Ohm primary resistance values available.

Ignitor II is designed for use with the Flame-Thrower II super low resistance (0.6 ohms) 45,000 volt coil

The MSD Blaster 2 coil is .7 OHMs.

So the next question will be can I get a Ignotor II to suit my dizzy.....? Ill have to hit em up. Im currently running the LU142A module.

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http://www.youtube.com/user/Hanras

Sure, if it's rated for higher current/lower resistance coils then it will be fine.
What's the price difference between the two anyway?

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SooperDooperMiniCooperExpertEngineering

All garage work involves equal measures of enthusiasm, ingenuity and a fair degree of irresponsibility.

Here's where I have got them in the past... has prices in USD.
http://www.vintageperformance.com/retro ... /lucas.htm

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

Thanks Kev, I've contacted Petronix to see if they make an Ignitor II kit that will suit my dizzy. If not, I'll have to bin the MSD coil and buy one of there Flamethrower jobbies.

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http://www.youtube.com/user/Hanras

We put this one in a friends cooper s it was no good we went back to points

it helps if you take it out of the box first

Now you tell me

Hahaaaaa-There's always got to be a comedian

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Why was it no good? Did it not fit? What model number is it?


What other brands of electronic ignitions are there to suit Lucas 29D dizzys? I would like to use this MSD coil but it seems there is no Ignitor II version to suit the 29D.

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http://www.youtube.com/user/Hanras

Generally, if the 'kit' fits the 23D4 and 25D4 it will fit the 29D4. About the only ones that don't fit are the ones with the built in rotor button.

I have used Lumintion with great success in the past. Maybe I'm a bit of a dinasour, but I tend to think that the varieties with an external 'amplifier' or 'driver' handle higher currents better, with their finned alloy cases , rather than being enclosed under a dissy cap.

Why not chat to Convertable Minis? He has some that he sells and I'd be fairly sure that he has checked them out for reliability.

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