Could someone explain sizes and types of brake line fittings please. I've tried to piece it together from searches, but i'm still confused.

I'm putting a hydaulic hand brake in, and today went past 3 brake specialists with old brake lines, mentioned about 'tapered threads', and got confused looks from them (had to get a fitting to reduce down to 3/16 tube for the master cyl I have here, which apparently is uncommon).

I ended up with the fittings I needed for the master cyl, and a few more tube nuts, which are the 'straight' variety. If they are useless for what I need to do on the 74 Clubman, i'll use them in the Moke which will have a Rover master cyl and brakes.

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3/16" Line as used in our Minis is common as, so WTF we're they on about?

Most fittings are 3/8" UNF. They are not tapered and they seal on theflared ends of the tube, not the threads. The Tapered threads as used for plumbing, seal (kinda) on the taper of the threads.

The only ones that can get odd on a mini are the late tandem ones. They use 10 mm tube nuts and on to the (crappy) proportioning valve that goes with them.

You'll need a proper brake line flaring tool as well. And there are two types of flare, a double and an invert type. Most tools will do both. Most on a mini are double flare type, but the ones that go on to the rear brake hoses are invert. There are also a few invert ones on Mokes.

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Minis shouldn't have tapered threads, they're parallel to make sure the flares or copper washers get as much clamping force as required.

What are your tapered threads off? Can't say I've seen them on any car before.

Oh, and get yourself a proper tube bender too.

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Ok this is the confusion I had gathered from searching! Not an issue now. Just gotta be careful when I do the Moke.

Last tool I bought was a double flare tool.

The pipe bender will have to wait, unfortunately.

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You can get by without a bender, just work slowly so you don't kink the tubing. I just like the bender, cause you can get some very neat pipework! and fast too.

<EDIT> I have a job on the bench ATM. If I get a chance tomorrow, I'll post up some pics.

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I would like to see this. I wanted to do some brake pipe re arranging once, and well found it all too hard, so left it. That with bending stuff, and the flaring of the ends

what you actually wanted was a 7/16 thread flarenut with a 3/16 bore... my local brake shop has them on the shelf

There are a variety of fittings needed, depending on what you're plumbing up



From left to right: These are Brass and Rubbish, stay away from these (Local suppliers seem to only be able to offer them), Next, these are the original Oz Style ones as found in the rear subframe, Next are the same as previous, but new from the UK, Next is the M10 type for the Tandem M/Cs and Last is the 3/8 UNF ones that cover most of the car.

This is the double flare, usually used with the M10 and the 3/8 Tube nut (last two on the right above)



Generally fitted in to something like this




This is an Invert Flare, as used with the hoses on the rear trailing arm, the Female Tube Nuts (first 3 from left above) are used with these



Fitted on to these




First part of making the lines is to make a mok up. I do this with steel welding wire, just to get all the angles and shape. Then use that to cut a length of tube, make it about 5% longer than what you think you need



De-bur the tube inner




Next, we start making the flares. You'll need a flaring tool, but not the type found in the hardware, one specifically for double and invert flaring. This is one of mine, nice and fast, easy to use



I modified the tool to ensure the forming clamp comes together flat every time, to be 100% sure that the flares also end up on-centre and square, otherwise they'll leak



I fitted dowels for positive alignment

This is the forming die from the flaring tool, it is probably the heart of it



Clamp up the tube in the forming clamp



With this tool, the forming die is also used for a guage for the length of tube to be left out of the forming clamp.

Fit the forming die



Then the screw press



A few turns (need a few muscles), until the forming die has come down flush with the forming clamp



Then, viola





One double flare.

To do an Invert Flare, 1st make a Double Flare, as above, but leave the tube in the forming clamp. Then using the screw press



A few turns of the handle



And then bingo, an Invert Flare



This is the Bender that I have



I like it because you can get the bends fairly close to the tube nuts (when needed)



And this is a 180 deg bend



Some pipework that I've done recently

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Many thanks for that. Very detailed and the pictures help a heap. I'll chuck it in to a how to later on.



That is exactly what I asked for. The third place I visited could only supply me with an adapter. Whatever works I guess...

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You make it look so easy.

I recently had some lines made up 'professionally,' because I didn't want my brakes to be shoddy. The lines from the MC to the bias valve (on a clubby, we're talking 30-40cm here) cost me $80. They were bent by hand, too.

Put them on, gave the brakes a bit of a push, and they were already leaking. I had to file down the flares since they were so bad.

If I have to make any in the future, I'll be buying a flairing kit. I didn't before, because I wanted a professional job. I could have made these ones better with a file and a hammer.

Your welcome



Disappointed to hear of your experience.

Hey there Irish Yobbo, yeap they are real easy. And for just a little more than $80, that would have covered the cost of the tool.

Fittings are only around a couple of bucks each (to buy loose) and while I buy new tube in 20 metre coils, you can always go to the wreckers and get the tube that goes front to rear from just about any car, a nice long straight piece (usually!) that you can make any pipe you need from.

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Flaring kit cost me $40.

http://cgi.ebay.com.au/ws/eBayISAPI.dll ... 0110139441

I called around and got a 6m coil of 3/16 bundy tube for $25.

The fittings were roughly $3.50ea, though I'm sure you could get them cheaper if bought in bulk/off the net/not some punk kid off the street with a hydraulic hand brake.

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Very nice guide GT mowog

Just one thing that i thought you might want to add, is that after flaring the pipe it is a good idea to inspect the flare for any splits/cracks in the pipe.

Hate to tell you this now but I have one of them and its pure rubbish.


I find it easier to buy the nuts and tube, then go to a place with tube pre cut to length and get them to flare it with an industrial one. Most real good ones won't have any forming marks or paint scratched off the tube.