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PostPosted: Tue May 24, 2011 9:42 pm 
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Location: Yandina,Sunshine Coast,QLD
What do you do if the brass buttons on the electrical contact are worn out?

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PostPosted: Wed May 25, 2011 9:35 am 
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Kenno, I don't have a solution myself, but, given the amount of times I've read the thread I've been posting in, I do remember the following quotes:
Convertible Mini wrote:
The little finger contacts that contact on the disc are often found to be destroyed as there had been a shorth through them as a result of wiring connected wrong. Ruining these contacts makes the Motors unrepairable as these contacts are not available any more.

So, the fingers are NLA. So, you can't buy new. Maybe you could swap them in from another wiper motor..? Or...
drmini in aust wrote:
I'm going to silver solder (SBA45) the tips of the 3 finger contacts on my bad one.
If I clamp a pair of pointy vicegrips on the copper strip it'll stop the nylon body from melting. I hope... :wink:

Further on in that thread, DrMini said that he had the motor working (on the bench). I can't find anything to advise how long lasting the solder's been.

In another thread, I also found this:
GT mowog wrote:
Mmmm.....thought as much. The last one I rebuilt I soft soldered a piece of brazing rod on to. Still going OK.

The one before that I put a micro switch on to. It get a lot of use and have never missed a beat. No good on a restoration though.....

So... There's three options. Swap in the fingers and nylon body from another wiper motor, solder the end with a very strong solder, or solder on an alternative tip (e.g. brazing rod). Hope you can get it sorted. :)


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PostPosted: Thu May 26, 2011 9:08 pm 
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Thanks for that, might have a look at the brazing option.

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PostPosted: Tue May 31, 2011 2:45 pm 
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You can just bend the fingers down a bit more and they will work fine, unless the ends are worn right off.
I didn't silver solder the ones mentioned above, as they didn't need it. But I'm sure it will work, silver has excellent conductivity and is fairly hard wearing.
It's important to replace the slip ring if worn and pitted. A smear of grease on it will delay the rust monster.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R. :mrgreen:


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PostPosted: Wed Jun 01, 2011 1:51 pm 
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I replaced the ring on mine with a Milo lid that I cut into shape... worked a treat... however not that think so I presume will wear out quicly.

The little fingers were bent a bit and all was good.

Cheers,
Peter

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PostPosted: Wed Jun 01, 2011 4:22 pm 
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pristic wrote:
I replaced the ring on mine with a Milo lid that I cut into shape... worked a treat... however not that think so I presume will wear out quicly.

The little fingers were bent a bit and all was good.

Cheers,
Peter

Standard ones are just very thin mild steel, Mini King now gets them laser cut.
Watch which way round you fit it relative to the crankpin, get it wrong and it will RH park... :lol:
I paint mark the gear teeth before I disassemble it.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R. :mrgreen:


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PostPosted: Wed Jun 01, 2011 6:39 pm 
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I was wondering if it was any special type of metal, I might make the next one myself. When I rebuilt mine the one in the car had buggered brass fingers but a usable conduct plate. I had to use another one I had which now works fine with a new plate :D .
To play it safe when I turned mine on I took the wiper arms off and put some bits of masking tape on the gears to see what went on first.

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