Hello friends

Myself and some friends are planning on building a khana moke.
Currently building up the engine, plans are:

Small bore
1100 Crank
80 or 100thou bore
Lightened Fly wheel
RE83
Nicely flowed head

So, given these rough specs, what would be an ideal carby?

Being a khana car, I presume we want something that will give a lot of torque down low?

Can we modify the above shopping list to help our cause?

Thanks in advance for any ideas
Cheers, Adam and Team

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You're so square
Baby I don't care

HIF44

Cheers Simon

Now that that's cleared up:

There have been plenty of threads about hydraulic handbrakes, and some handdrawn images

But does anyone have any photos of how they constructed their handbrake?
Photos of the important bits of the installation (Rear bias valve etc)?

Trying to keep the cost down on this build, so would be willing to have a go at making my own handbrake. Any photos will help!

Is there any difference in the mechanism for a vertical handbrake compared to the horizontal one?

_________________
You're so square
Baby I don't care

What's wrong with left-foot braking

nothing, but it doesn't do the same job as a handbrake

here's the drawing of how it works



there are some detailed pictures in here of my lever, and a vertical one doesn't work any differently

http://www.morrismini.com/images/handbrake/

I kept the standard pressure limit valve under the back - here's what my piping looks like under the back, the two lines going into the floor beside the tunnel go to the handbrake

Use a landrover series II clutch master cylinder for the handbrake. Under $50 new when I bought one.

Make the handle and bracketry yourself and place it where you will. Placing the cylinder under the passenger side seat is easy but will require more line than placing in the side-box. Make the handle removable for road use (if any).

Move the rear limiter valve to somewhere upstream of the new handbrake. Inside the side-box is easiest because a Moke already has a joiner in there. So the lines goes master > limiter > hydrobrake > t-piece > rear wheel cylinders.

Replace the limiter valve on the rear subframe with a T-piece.

Also, realise you will need at least a factory Cali rollbar according to CAMS. Or you can make one up to Schedule J spec. You can't run without a rollbar of some description in a Moke. (Unless the rules have changed in the last couple of years.)

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Brett Nicholson
Greendale (near Ballan) VIC.
1971 Morris Mini Moke
1966 Austin Mini
1965 Morris Mini Traveller
1973 LR Series 3 88
2007 LR Freelander 2

And it cant be Alloy

Yep, thanks brett for the heads up about the rollbar.

We plan to bend one up out of at least 1.5mm thick tube, at least 30mm in diameter

Out of steel!

_________________
You're so square
Baby I don't care

It wants to be bigger than 30mm... and 3mm wall or thicker.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

Oops, was quoting the wrong part of the rule book!

Atleast 38mm diameter and at least 2.5mm thick!

_________________
You're so square
Baby I don't care

30mm dia, 1.5mm steel tube sounds suspiciously like street sign pole.

I thought we were saving that for the exhaust

Matt and I may have already spoken about this..

and there are plenty of street signs around.

_________________
You're so square
Baby I don't care

And plates for patching rust holes - two birds with one stone! I'm thinking a mosaic floor ... of Give Way signs.

Actually, I like the way you think..

Clear coat over the street signs.
Rat as!

_________________
You're so square
Baby I don't care

Street signs are usually aluminium and fairly thick.