I'm told GR always uses heat to get the flywheels off.



good plan

I have an ultra-long flywheel bolt, apparently from an early 850 - when fully screwed into the end of the crank it still has 3/8" clearance. I do my puller up against that, and when the flywheel pops off, it can't go anywhere

I do that too Simon.

Oh and you also need to heat up the Loctite thread locker on the flywheel bolt, so you are in there heating anyway. May as well leave it hot and pull the flywheel off while it is still hot.

cheers
michael

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the world is a book, and those who do not travel read only a page
66 Mini Minor sponsored by http://www.lifeonthehedge.com.au/ The Dog Harness Specialists
It was a pleasure ausmini. I'll miss all you misfits and reprobates

I've seen 2 different types of those hydraulics pullers like the original post and GT mowogs. Both the same design but the ends differ. One of the pullers requires the cap to be fitted into the crank, the other pullers end is already designed to fit the end of the crank.

And it's quite common if you just have the engine on the ground, for the flywheel to travel a metre or more if its a tight one, so as everyone says, dont stand in its way.

Aren't cylinder head studs the right thread? From memory that's what I use.

Heres a link to a good puller, it is also based on grease hydrolics like the coxhead puller.

Its on the to make list when I buy a lathe

I also have a coxhead puller its got every flywheel off to date.



http://www.drjing.com/Mini/TechFiles/Hy ... Puller.htm

yep, but you need some 3/8 UNC nuts for the other end

I'd just go buy 3 HT 3/8 UNF bolts the right length. Grade 8 hex bolts work fine but Grade 10 or 12 cap head ones are stronger.
Make something to sit in the end of the crank so you don't bugger it- I use a 1" long 5/8" bolt with the threads machined off.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.