Notwithstanding the heaps good English in this thread I think I am following what has been said. Is such a bracket available off the shelf, or would you need to fabricate it yourself? If the latter, what do you need in terms of a "good" bracket?

@Nick - the ebay item you say you wanted to buy, I take it that was tongue in cheek seeing as the price is US$600 - eeek!

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this is what I was meaning and i like the idea about the rose joints

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Stop Licking the Dog...I Don't Care Who Started It

Mounted like this and you put all the twisting loads into the casting where it is designed to take it, as long as the long bolt is tight!
You can also get the pulley lined up easily with that set up.



The tensioner is easy, just go to a wrecker and find one that fits. If you want more strength get two brackets and weld them together doubled up.

Hey I bought the last one, I posted it on a few forums and he sold like 8 of them lol..

He has jacked the price up as he is sold out at the moment.

Check the top link again, it's the same 180 landed.

I think most those parts. You can find on the shelf, rose joints are a eBay items, bolts etc.

You may find it difficult finding a top bracket and you could get something from the wreckers.

My bad if there are some funny words, doing this on my iPad. Dam prediction text!

I'll post some pictures when I do mine.

Like I said earlier, they break from twisting







I've seen a quite a few like these. And lots of broken water pumps too.

The other alternator I refered to earlier as an after market conversion for the Kobota machines is a Mitsubishi Alternator (manufatured by Mitsubishi, not fitted to Mitsubishi cars!) Pics coming.

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The A series was designed for a dynamo, so when an alternator came along BMC developed a bracket to mount the shorter alternator to the existing bosses in the block.

If you have an A+ block you will probably have noticed that the bosses in the block for the alternator bracket are closer to the water pump than the old A series. Leyland moved the bosses and reused the old A series Dynamo bracket for the alternator on an A+.

Hence, if you use an A series Alternator bracket on an A+ block, with one of these smaller alternators, then the long bolt and spacer can be an inch or so shorter. This supports the alternator better.

Cheers,

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Brett Nicholson
Greendale (near Ballan) VIC.
1971 Morris Mini Moke
1966 Austin Mini
1965 Morris Mini Traveller
1973 LR Series 3 88
2007 LR Freelander 2

Just found these, A marine purpose but cheaper

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/NEW-ALTERNATOR-MARINE-POWER-INBOARD-STERNDRIVE-19020614-/330498453710?pt=Boat_Parts_Accessories_Gear&hash=item4cf33e30ce

70 amps

cheers

great find craig! postage is a joke though.

This is the aftermarket one that is fitted to the Kobota next to the stock Mini one





These are the ones the guys fit when the stock Nippon unit breaks.

Almost looks like it was made for a Mini.

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The design of the bottom locating bracket would go a long way in reducing the twisting that results in broken mount bosses.

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1970 Mini Deluxe - 1275, Weber, Clive 346 cam, MS 4-pot slotted discs, Megajolt ignition Now with new improved Mambas... almost on the road
1966 Van with Traveller rear seat conversion
2008 Prado GXL
All in various states of repair...

What a sexy piece of kit!

This is a rough sketch of what the bottom bracket could look like. As you can see it would help considerably
in stopping the twisting torque with alternators with a suspect mounting boss.
If you had doubts about the mounting boss, a rose joint would be bad, as it would allow easy twisting as the motor revved up and down.