I need to pull the engie out of my car this weekend.

The way I put it in was from the underside, but I don't want to remove the steering or brakes to get the engine out this time.

I veigly remember seeing a lifting bracket drawing somewhere that bolts on the head studs, and supposedly lifts the engine at the right angle it can come straight up (I don't want to scratch anything!).

Anyone got a drawing or sketch of what I'm looking for?

Better yet, anybody have one I can borrow?

use this



between front head studs 2 and 4.

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i don't wanna open a can here...

does it stretch the head studs doing that? i've heard you have to re-tension after lifting off the head bolts??? probably not a problem if you know bout it.

Really? That was quick, thanks.
I take it the head studs are counted from the pump end like engine cylinders?

I can only speak from my own experiences over the past 25+ years. With a Rod Shift, it's the perfect angle, need a whisker more for remote types.

Never had a problem doing it that way and yes, I re-tension the head - all nuts, not just those that the chain went over.

I have even lifted them from a single stud, but I'd suggest using 2 to others, just for safety.



Yeah, there is 5, so miss one, use one, miss one, use one, miss the last one.

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What do people most commonly do with the pot joints? Normally I just lift the engine and the shafts drop out the ends but mine were reco'd only a week ago.
Can I support the car on stands and remove the top ball joint and get enough 'swing to get the pots out or is that too hard?

I prefer to tap the drive shaft from the inner of the joint. Less mess (re NO mess) and you don't loose your balls! might be a little more work at removal time, but way less at install time.

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Remember to drain the oilz first, or else......

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

No, not necessary. Sorry maybe my bad. The pot joint stays on the gearbox, the shaft is removed from the joint. No oil. No yukky CV Grease. No mess.

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Sorry I misread, thought you meant tapping the pots out of the box..
That is another way to do it without losing yer balls..

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

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How do you tap the driveshat out?
I've done it before and it was a tight fit on the work bench, can't imagine doing it on the car without damaging or removing the boot / gaiter.

I have a pic but not on this PC. I'll try to remember to post up in the AM. You can just get a 'tang through' screw driver on to the steel part of the inner. Ive done heaps, yeap, sometimes you come across a stubborn one, but I don't recall damaging a boot.

With the stubborn ones, I get the driver in under the boot to get better purchase for tapping. It does then mean taking the boot right off (once it's all out) and re-tieing the inner of the boot.

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After faffing about with chains for ages I finally made a bracket. Copied Simon K's idea....well his whole design really

Flat piece of steel, three holes, job done. Two holes for alternator braket bolts, one hole for D bolt at the top to lift. Let me know if you're up for some drilling and want pic or measurements.

The original thread on lifting brackets is now on Page 2 of the how to's section. whether you weld a D Shackle or drill holes for the lifting hook is up to you.
KB

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