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PostPosted: Wed Jul 06, 2011 5:45 pm 
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Causing or creating vexation

Joined: Wed Jul 21, 2004 10:32 pm
Posts: 19124
I had a mate with a tandem axle unsprung trailer and his trick when towing the trailer empty was to take the wheels off the front axle and to let the tyres down on the rear axle to 20psi. :lol:


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PostPosted: Wed Jul 06, 2011 8:04 pm 
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998cc
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Joined: Mon Jun 18, 2007 9:00 pm
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Location: Down South
Tombo wrote:
1. It does have suspension, 1.5 ton springs with about 3 inches travel unloaded, it has bout 2 inches with a mini on.
2. Including buying the donor trailer it came to about $1800.

The donor trailer was tandem unsprung and was a bit of a pig.


It is a really good thing.....so when should I send you the money! :wink:


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PostPosted: Wed Jul 06, 2011 8:17 pm 
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Yay For Hay!
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Joined: Wed Sep 08, 2004 9:27 pm
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Location: Wodonga - Vic/NSW border
no suspension is a moot point - you can't register unsprung trailers anymore

here's the info on the ADRs you need to comply with when building a trailer

http://www.infrastructure.gov.au/roads/ ... _01_b.aspx


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PostPosted: Wed Jul 06, 2011 8:27 pm 
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998cc
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Location: Down South
simon k wrote:
no suspension is a moot point - you can't register unsprung trailers anymore

here's the info on the ADRs you need to comply with when building a trailer

http://www.infrastructure.gov.au/roads/ ... _01_b.aspx


That answers that question then! 8)


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PostPosted: Wed Jul 06, 2011 8:33 pm 
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1275cc
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Joined: Sat Nov 19, 2005 1:37 pm
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Location: Vegus, Brisvegus
simon k wrote:
no suspension is a moot point - you can't register unsprung trailers anymore

here's the info on the ADRs you need to comply with when building a trailer

http://www.infrastructure.gov.au/roads/ ... _01_b.aspx


Simon, I couldn't find the text that prohibits unsprung trailers. Can you help me out with a reference to a section number.

I am not a fan of unsprung trailers but do know someone actively constructing, registering and selling these and he was an author of the Code of Practice for Light Vehicle Modifications so I would expect he's familiar with the rules. He could just be out of date though. Your assistance would be appreciated as I've been trying to convince him to add rubber suspension and pivot bearings to the trailing arms used to raise/lower the deck.

M


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PostPosted: Wed Jul 06, 2011 8:42 pm 
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1098cc
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Location: Inner West, Sydney
weevel wrote:
could you just add a winch?

Sorry, was really referring to the original post, as in wouldn't a winch help that one work better?


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PostPosted: Wed Jul 06, 2011 8:47 pm 
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1360cc
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Location: SE Melbourne
I don't think its so much no suspension as it is that multiple axle trailers need to be able to load share the axles. (section 19 from other link)


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PostPosted: Thu Jul 07, 2011 7:39 am 
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848cc
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I know I had a pic of mine here before but cant find it. I had mine custom built by austrailers at Campbelltown a few years ago. Its light and easy to move around, the wheels rest against the front rail and the lowered section allows sump clearance, the doors clear the guards so you can drive on and off very easily. I would go the tilt option now but the ramps are easy enough. I also have steel belts which go over the tyres with nuts welded under the floor so they can be bolted stratight on and allow the cars suspension to move around, also has two tie down points at the front of the a frame so there is enough room to use ratchet straps and tighten them if needed and a safety chain point on each corner.

Image

Image

Image


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PostPosted: Thu Jul 07, 2011 3:49 pm 
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Causing or creating vexation

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Something to remember for those people that have not used trailers very often is that it is very important that the car is sitting in the right spot on the trailer. If it is too far forward or too far back it can cause problems. Don't just park it against the front of the trailer and assume it is in the best spot.
You need some weight on the draw bar but not too much.
If the trailer sways it is because the car is too far back on the trailer.
If the front wheels on the tow car are locking up easily you have too much weight on the front of the trailer.

Also, don't rely on the front of the trailer to stop the car from moving forwards. The car will just roll over it in a crash.
You need to secure the car on all directions.


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PostPosted: Thu Jul 07, 2011 5:44 pm 
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Very good tips there Morris, I have one to add.
My last boss is a firefighter, he said the worst trailer accident aren't when the load falls of the back, it's when the load isn't held back properly on the trailer and the tow car hits something causing the load to enter the back of the car.


That's why my mini is held back with chains and forward with truck straps.

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PostPosted: Thu Jul 07, 2011 6:34 pm 
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998cc
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Location: Down South
HSVJET wrote:
I know I had a pic of mine here before but cant find it. I had mine custom built by austrailers at Campbelltown a few years ago. Its light and easy to move around, the wheels rest against the front rail and the lowered section allows sump clearance, the doors clear the guards so you can drive on and off very easily. I would go the tilt option now but the ramps are easy enough. I also have steel belts which go over the tyres with nuts welded under the floor so they can be bolted stratight on and allow the cars suspension to move around, also has two tie down points at the front of the a frame so there is enough room to use ratchet straps and tighten them if needed and a safety chain point on each corner.

Image

Image

Image


Very nice! Would you mind sharing the approx cost?

:)


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PostPosted: Thu Jul 07, 2011 6:39 pm 
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848cc
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Location: Sydney
I paid about $2500.00 5 years ago but that included the 3 new alloys rims and brand new light truck tyres as most come with second hand stockies.


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PostPosted: Thu Jul 07, 2011 6:39 pm 
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1275cc
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Tombo wrote:
1. It does have suspension, 1.5 ton springs with about 3 inches travel unloaded, it has bout 2 inches with a mini on.
2. Including buying the donor trailer it came to about $1800.

The donor trailer was tandem unsprung and was a bit of a pig.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Jul 07, 2011 7:00 pm 
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998cc
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Joined: Sun Dec 18, 2005 10:54 am
Posts: 529
Location: Adelaide, SA
as seen before this is mine

Image

Tandem axle , rocker springs ( 3 tonne springs too big in hindsight), hydraulic Front disks , tows like absolute dream ...

Image

i chose to have ramps as its just simple , and when i eventually get a winch i will be able to load the car by myself ( ever tried pushing a dead car onto a tilt trailer ? mind you Wobbles55 does have a very nice tilt one ...

i will post photos latter on how its tied on ... over the front wheels and locked down to the tray ..

Beanie

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Jul 07, 2011 9:49 pm 
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998cc
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Joined: Sat Mar 05, 2005 7:23 pm
Posts: 614
Location: Gippsland, Victoria
Another thing worth considering is some type of stone guard on the front of your trailer, especially if the car is going to be towed regularly over considerable distances, such as to interstate race meetings.

Unfortunately I don't have shot of the trailer with the Brick on it, but this is sort of my rear-wheel-drive Mini.

Image
Why does it aways rain at Calder !!

The trailer is a home-built, dual purpose tilt trailer with full floor (timber and fibreglass), removable box trailer sides with hinged (and removable) front and rear panels. The guards also slide on and off. Electric brakes and light truck tyres on Hilux rims. Wheel chocks, stone guard and short ramps all use the same slip-in fittings as the removable sides and tailgates.

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'64 Cooper 'S' (Group Nb spec)
'67 Mini Marcos GT www.mm7056.wordpress.com


Last edited by Curly on Fri Jul 08, 2011 9:23 am, edited 1 time in total.

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