I have both of the above on my car, engine sure don't go anywhere.
I removed them yesterday and then started the car and you could really see the difference they make.

DAM PANEL BEATER.....
Just removed the steady bracket only to find out that my panel beater didn't weld the previous cracks up when the car was rebuilt a few years ago. The "bridge" of steel between the two master cylinder holes had previously snapped/cracked clean through, I specifically showed him what the problem was and then I wedged the piece back in place so it wouldn't get lost, all he did was paint over it . Weather he forgot to weld it or not isn't the point, I took the time and effort to show him what I wanted
RANT
Any way, because this wasn't repaired it allowed even more damage so now I have had to weld this section in myself plus weld up the new crack that ran across the bend where the bulkhead meets the firewall between the two MC holes.
All up around four inches of cracks needed welding so I'm a bit pi$$ed off .

Now for the bracket, I'm going to bolt in a complete pedal box (minus the pedals) and I'm going to try and make a new steady mount bracket the uses all four studs instead of just the three that the current bracket uses. Then I'll get onto making my own gearbox steadies.

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Respect mine and I'll respect yours.

All done.
The old bracket, the two sandwich plates are bent and only 1mm thick;

The new bracket is 3mm thick same as the piece being reused (too the right of the pic);

Repaired and painted bulkhead;

New rubber seal;

1st half of the bracket, this joins all four studs together into the steady;

2nd half of the bracket and engine steady in place, this is the only original piece I'm using. It sandwiches the 1st bracket on three of the studs and the bolt through the steady connects both brackets together;

Hopefully this solves all my problems in this area, the pedal box isn't that obvious in the cab either which is great .

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Respect mine and I'll respect yours.

Now that Kenno's fixed his problem... How many other people have used those Gearbox Stabilizers? Are they any good? Both the Minis I've owned have had rod changes. I've asked people if the top steadies and lower mounts look to be in good condition, and every has always said yes. Yet, if you're quick on the throttle (let alone if you use the throttle as a switch), it feels like the engine moves a mile. It seems like those gearbox stabilizers are a good idea... So, any opinions?

I guess I should also ask - how hard are they to install? Obviously you've got to drill a hole in the subby - can that be done in situ? And you've got to fix it to the gearbox - can you get away with doing that without dropping the oil..?

I reckon i have one of the lower brackets in a box somewhere, they look familiar. Maybe when i put a strong diff in i might fit a lower steady too

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Dean Hutton's first car was a Mini.

Way back in the 60s I had a quick 1098 on an 850 box, and it used a lower steady. They worked well, unless oil got onto the rubbers... and rotted them.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

Hmm... I've got some drips down there... Investigating them later this week. What if you used Nolathane? It's supposedly oil-resistant, isn't it? Or would it be too harsh/hard?

I'm guessing, Doc, that by 850 box you mean a magic wand box? I didn't think about them - I'm guessing they're as loosely connected at the bottom end as the rod change is? I guess that's another reason why the remote is probably the best shifter to have...

I have both a left- and right-hand-side lower stabiliser on my car, as well as both top stabilisers (with new bushes). Yes, it's a rod-change.

Love 'em. The amount of drivetrain shunt coming on and off the throttle quickly (which I always try to avoid in any case) is significantly reduced. The engine simply can't move.

Installation is easy, you can do both easily inside an hour on the car. You need to drill a 10mm (IIRC) hole in the subframe leg for each stabiliser, but aside from that it just bolts up. No need to drain anything.

Just be careful not to strip the threads in the alloy - it's tempting to overtighten them with the aim of preventing movement, but just remember it's alloy

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Simon

The adventures of an owner builder in the Tallarook Ranges

Can anyone post some pics of these gearbox steadies installed in their car. I've studied the pics and I cant see what studs they line up with.

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Respect mine and I'll respect yours.

I must have missed this thread. Garry made a good solution to this for me. Been meaning to get some pics up. Will do it tonight.

Well I finished building my gearbox stabiliser tonight, all 3mm thick steel plate, std bolts and std rubbers.
Drivers side;
Top stud has a gusset supporting it.


Passengers side;
This one has more gusseting than the drivers because the angle the bar is on looked like it could cause problems quickly.


The mounts on the subframe wings are drilled through the double thickness section which I figure will be the strongest area.
And one final pic from the underside (this mini is not my daily drive just a spare one, that's why it looks so rough);

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Respect mine and I'll respect yours.

Kenno, that's almost exactly what my MiniSpares set look like installed on the car.. Except mine are gold zinc plated

Good job!

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Simon

The adventures of an owner builder in the Tallarook Ranges

I had the mini sport ones printed out on a bit of paper but I couldn't see how they lined up with any of the studs/bolts so I had to make them by scratch.
Do you reckon you could post up some pics of yours installed, just out of curiosity?

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Respect mine and I'll respect yours.

if that was the daily drive id be **** impressed

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PrOuDlY aSkInG qUeStIoNs FoR uR aMuEsMeNt

I can, but not until Monday evening at the earliest, away from home atm...

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Simon

The adventures of an owner builder in the Tallarook Ranges