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GR
PostPosted: Wed Jun 22, 2011 6:38 pm 
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Location: North Rocks
Hi All,

picked up some cam lube from high performance world and dennis gave me this information on camshafts put out by isky.

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I have been using Brad Penn in my race car and other race motors i build for some time now and having great success with it.

Also Barry Seton has changed over to it and getting much better life out of his roller cams.

I do stock it if anybody is interested, works out cheaper than Castrol EDGE Sport but you have to buy a case of 12 x 0.946L ~12L.

Call me for details.

Also the billet cams that i use now have the lobes force fed with oil to get oil between the follower and the lobe. The holes are drilled on the opening ramp.

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Graham Russell.

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Wombat
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PostPosted: Wed Jun 22, 2011 6:57 pm 
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Graham - is this only for high performance engines? - or would you recommend for daily drivers and 'warm' street motors?

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GR
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PostPosted: Wed Jun 22, 2011 7:07 pm 
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Hi David
Yes it is very good for a daily driver i have a few guys use it in their cars, very good to start off with in a new motor,it's a 20w 50 weight oil
Graham Russell

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NG
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PostPosted: Wed Jun 22, 2011 9:19 pm 
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i use castrol edge sport 25 -50, so is that still ok to use?

i was told when i picked up some crane cams cam lube.

that i should just use this every oil change as it has plenty of zinc & protection for our type of engines & the older big v8's

what do you think about that Gr?
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1098
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PostPosted: Thu Jun 23, 2011 1:40 am 
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Some may say even more important for a road car as that's the one that's doing all the miles?!
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GR
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PostPosted: Thu Jun 23, 2011 7:39 am 
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Hi Nick
Cam lube to me is somthing you wipe on the lobes when you put a new engine together, is what your using an oil addative? there are a few oil addatives on the market now( ZDDP) Fabre/ Midel have one now made by Howard Cams and claim to have to the most ZDDP in theirs than any one else,but interesting they add molly bond to their addative, but we're lucky with our minis having a steel cam and the followers seem to be the problem failing first then taking the cam out, but if you not having a problem with your oil theres no need to change i still pour KMX in my minis at the moment they love it.
Graham Russell

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kirby
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PostPosted: Fri Jun 24, 2011 9:00 pm 
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Its getting so hard to find a good oil here, I would like some numbers on this,
The oils in that document have within 0.01% more zinc than a common semi synthetic or synthetic oil.

Im also not sold on the "very low film strength", by design a synthetic oil will have a massively higher shear strength than even the best of mineral oils.
Granted a 5w or even 10w oil would be ill advised in an engine like the A series but 15w and upwards should be perfectly fine assuming shear strength and zinc content are the main arguments not to use them.

Im basing this on the data sheets mostly as I'm trying to be cynical.

I just don't know what to believe anymore.
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drmini in aust
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PostPosted: Fri Jun 24, 2011 10:45 pm 
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Since a Mini is such an agricultural (low tech) engine & box, how about some tractor oil (yes, I'm 1/2 serious here)-
http://www.castrol.com/castrol/productd ... Id=7022420

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GT mowog
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PostPosted: Sat Jun 25, 2011 7:47 am 
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drmini in aust wrote:
Since a Mini is such an agricultural (low tech) engine & box, how about some tractor oil (yes, I'm 1/2 serious here)-
http://www.castrol.com/castrol/productd ... Id=7022420


LOL.......might be OK, however it appears that product has been developed to stop that jackeroo's from putting Hydraulic Oil in the Sump, it's a 'One Oil does all'. As I say, might be OK.......

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Mick
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PostPosted: Wed Jul 13, 2011 10:12 pm 
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Spotted this Mobil product today at Repco. It specifically aims this product at our old machines. Maybe something to look at? Not expensive either at 29 dollars.

The comment about it being suitable for cat converters might work against this oil being any different to the rest however...

http://www.mobil.com/Australia-English/ ... _May09.pdf

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mickmini
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PostPosted: Wed Jul 13, 2011 10:27 pm 
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Mick wrote:
Spotted this Mobil product today at Repco. It specifically aims this product at our old machines. Maybe something to look at? Not expensive either at 29 dollars.

The comment about it being suitable for cat converters might work against this oil being any different to the rest however...

http://www.mobil.com/Australia-English/ ... _May09.pdf



Better info is often found in the Material Safety Data Sheet (MSDS) because they have to show the reportable content. The stuff we are interested in to make the bits in the engine last are often reportable.

Mobil MSDS wrote:
ZINC DITHIOPHOSPHATE < 2.5%

IMPORTANT HEALTH, SAFETY, AND ENVIRONMENTAL INFORMATION
Relative Density (at 15 C): 0.899
Flash Point [Method]: 240C (464F) [ ASTM D-92]
Flammable Limits (Approximate volume % in air): LEL: 0.9 UEL: 7.0
Autoignition Temperature: N/D
Boiling Point / Range: > 316C (600F)
Vapour Density (Air = 1): N/D
Vapour Pressure: < 0.013 kPa (0.1 mm Hg) at 20 C
Evaporation Rate (N-Butyl Acetate = 1): N/D
pH: N/A
Log Pow (n-Octanol/Water Partition Coefficient): > 3.5
Solubility in Water: Negligible
Viscosity: 247.56 cSt (247.56 mm²/sec) at 40 C | 23.26 cSt (23.26 mm²/sec) at 100C
Oxidising properties: See Sections 2, 15, 16.

OTHER INFORMATION
Freezing Point: N/D
Melting Point: N/A
Pour Point: -15°C (5°F)
DMSO Extract (mineral oil only), IP-346: < 3 %wt


Someone with a bit more knowledge on this can take that infor and answer the question on whether it is suitable or not . . .

cheers
michael

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Maxi23
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PostPosted: Thu Jul 14, 2011 6:56 am 
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You will not get any helpful information regarding the make-up of the oil from an MSDS.

You will more than likely need to have a sample tested at a lab, I can get you the details of one if you like, they send you a kit and you send it back to them.
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