Hey Guys,

Sorry for the delay.
Here are some pic's of the Engine Steady that GTmowog made up for me. It is his design and his handy work.

It is pretty nifty, Two plates that sandwhich the bulk head and then an arm that comes off the front at the same level as the top of the bulkhead. This stops leverage action that the normal one has. It made a huge difference to my mini. I seem to have lost a lot of the vibration that I had previously from my motor. It is quite lumpy so it was annoying. Now that this is channelled into the body more it makes the bonnet rattle when idling but I can fix that.



TOP

BOTTOM

Whoah, ain't that the goods!?

Nice work, that man!

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Simon

The adventures of an owner builder in the Tallarook Ranges

Decent plate thickness is good and it's a big space saver aswell

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Respect mine and I'll respect yours.

And it doesn't interfere with the standard washer bottle.... Certainly does appear to be the schizzle.

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No decision is incorrect when made - but it does become apparent in retrospect...

Come on Simon - it's Monday!

Nice work Kenno - your setup looks excellent. I'm guessing you just heated and your stabilizers..? Or did you cut and weld?

I've found a minor glitch with the changed upper stabilizer - you've got to get the length right. I know my engine has a non-standard upper stabilizer, halfway between the two common sizes (well, that's how it was explained to me by the respected mechanic who installed it). The advantage of the gearbox stabilizers would be that there'd be less likelihood that the lengths of the stabilizers would vary as much.

This talk about gearbox stabilizers is only relevant to rod change boxes isn't it? An extension housing type 'box would properly act as a gearbox stabilizer??

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No decision is incorrect when made - but it does become apparent in retrospect...

As long as all the mounts are in good shape, then I've never needed one on any remote I've owned. The only time that rear mount fails on the remote is when someone pulls an engine out and lets the remote hang in the breeze. All it needs is a piece of wire to hold it up...

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SooperDooperMiniCooperExpertEngineering

All garage work involves equal measures of enthusiasm, ingenuity and a fair degree of irresponsibility.

I know, I know.. didn't get out to the garage last night. Tonight, I promise

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Simon

The adventures of an owner builder in the Tallarook Ranges

It's tonight already.

Dicko.

The top passenger stabilizer is custom made, it dose push the engine forward ever so slightly.
The drivers side stabilizer is standard.
The gearbox stabilizers and brackets are all custom made, I had the ends of each stabilizer machined from steel "stock" to be the same width and internal dimensions as the end of a std stabilizer so they use standard rubber mounts.
They are all mild steel (where as the std ones are cast steel) and the lengths are made to fit what I wanted, just bolt the mounts into position and then cut and weld a bit of steel rod inbetween.
All the little bits of steel in the brackets were cut out individually, shaped, bent and welded together.
All I used was a pen & paper (for some templates), tape measure, drill, 4" grinder, hammer, vice and a welder. Anyone could make them you just need to know what you want the end product to look like, and do a lot of test fitting just to make sure it will fit and work properly.

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Respect mine and I'll respect yours.

I meant the idea of having a fixed plate against the bulkhead rather than the bolted connection was more difficult - not your setup, Kenno. I was just thinking that you're more likely to find variations in dimension from the top of the engine to the bulkhead than from the gearbox to the subframe. Especially given you've got to drill the hole in the subframe for each gearbox stabilizer. There's no doubt Floss and GT Mowog's top stabilizer solution is a very good one, I'm just not sure it's any less work than doing the gearbox stabilizer.

Oi, Simon! Get out in that shed!!!

Geez you're an impatient lot

Here you go, crappy camera-phone shots:

Radiator side:


Flywheel side:

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Simon

The adventures of an owner builder in the Tallarook Ranges

'Bout time!!!! They look great.

My radiator side steady came with the car - looks homemade. Consists of two bits of angle and a straight rod with thread each end - nut either side of the angle and you can adjust the position/angle of the engine by adjusting the nuts.

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David L


My greatest fear in life is that when I die my wife will sell my Mini and tools for the price I told her I paid for them!

The ones I make are more work then the gearbox underside ones, like on sgc's car.

These were designed orginally for off road stuff in rally cars and mokes. They are actaully more effective then the underside types because they are so much further away from the engine mounts so have more leverage to reduce engine rock. They also don't hang down (to get caught on rocks and stuff) and will allow the fitting of a sump gaurd (particularly the factory moke one). Don't get me wrong, the underside ones are good and will do the job OK for most cars, just these are stronger and even more effective.

If you are running lots of torque and are heavy on the throttle, then you'd fit both types.

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