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PostPosted: Thu Aug 25, 2011 6:41 pm 
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1275cc
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Location: sunbury victoria
Just trying to establish having never driven a powerful mini, (100hp+) what's the power feel Like vs a stage 1 1275?

Much difference between a 1330 and a 1380?

And How do they go against other cars..

Yep, I've lowered myself to posts like this :lol:


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PostPosted: Thu Aug 25, 2011 6:56 pm 
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1360cc
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I'm trying to think of a stupid response to yet another 'how fast' thread but all I got it:

Quote:
Like warm apple pie.


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PostPosted: Thu Aug 25, 2011 6:59 pm 
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Lol, Mcdonalds or home made?


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PostPosted: Thu Aug 25, 2011 7:00 pm 
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998cc
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i find a good motor and a very bad motor both feel the same when you drop them on your big toe!

:P


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PostPosted: Thu Aug 25, 2011 8:28 pm 
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998cc
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Well, as a guide have a look at this video from Oz50, and watch how fast the other cars go by, and pull away down the straight.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BhIeNUdw8IA

Supercooper's van in front has the 7 port dynoed at 90HP at the wheels if I remember correctly. If Leigh's van does make 90 atw, then what do the other cars (Group N) make? I'm not asking for an answer btw.

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PostPosted: Thu Aug 25, 2011 10:02 pm 
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1275cc
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Location: Sydney - strangely, I am glad of the sight of hills!!
meeni wrote:
Lol, Mcdonalds or home made?


Home made for sure :wink: .

The torque difference is what you really notice. I found that the 1411cc 113ftlb engine combined with the mini's light weight felt better than the 2500 turbo 350Nm (sorry mixing my units) in the Forester (1400 ish kg?). Similar low down urge, because both are all about the torque.

You don't need to wring it's neck to get it moving. I never go above 7000rpm and change at 6500 in the mini. A few times i missed the downchange into the fish hook at Wakefield, rammed it back into 3rd and still pulled out of there like a train.

cheers
michael

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PostPosted: Fri Aug 26, 2011 2:02 am 
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they feel very metallic,,, cold hard metal like

unless it`s been running of course,,, then they`re like warm hard metal

but very metallic & very hard none the less

:-)

sorry

edit--> hey Skippy is on TV right now :-)

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PostPosted: Fri Aug 26, 2011 7:19 am 
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1275cc
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Location: Central Coast, NSW.
I remember my first go in Kazjims stroker turbo 998.

The words that I think best described it at the time were "Get f_cked"

The difference in power was extremely noticeable.


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PostPosted: Fri Aug 26, 2011 10:40 am 
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998cc
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Location: Adelaide, SA
Chalk And Cheese mate ..

By stage 1 1275 i guess you mean extractors exhaust and not much else ?

buy the time your pushing 100hp ATW it feels like its going to take off .. and so it should , stage 1 would be a little more than standard 65-70 hp Atfw where alot of the even mid field historic boys have 120-130 hp atfw we are talking nearly double !!!

if your coming to adelaide soon come have a drive of mine .,

Beanie

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PostPosted: Fri Aug 26, 2011 3:51 pm 
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1360cc
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meeni wrote:
Just trying to establish having never driven a powerful mini, (100hp+) what's the power feel Like vs a stage 1 1275?

Much difference between a 1330 and a 1380?

And How do they go against other cars..

Yep, I've lowered myself to posts like this :lol:


1380 will be exactly 3.6% more power. Is it worth it? Only you can decide, if you have a fresh 1275 and are boring it out straight to the last (without sleeving cylinders) bore of 1380 it would seem like a waste. Hence I went from 1275 to 1330 and not 1380. 1310 vs 1380 possibly a noticeable difference, 1330 to 1380, less noticeable, then you at least have 2 rebuilds left in the block (1360, 1380). So it's not really a matter of power...

Also there's the argument of stronger, straighter cylinder walls on smaller bores. 1380 is awfully thin in certain places. Straight, strong, revvy motor is more desirable trade off for 3.6% power...

What it feels like going from 1100 on 50ish bhp to highly strung 1330 with 120bhp: Torque, noise, sheer urge. The engine eats up gears fast, 1st and 2nd disappears in a few short seconds from on cam to redline. Hills just don't exist, Freeway onramps are your best friends. You spin up tyres in the dry and have no hope in the wet, so respect is needed. Torque steer if your rack is already worn.

A powerful engine will bring in many other parts of the car into question such as brakes, tyres, general mechanicals of the car such as suspension, handling etc etc. Suddenly that niggling problem you had with the rear brakes are a BIG problem now. The stock seats just seem to throw you off them around corners, stuff like that. If you had a radiator problem before, then it's about to be a catastrophe soon. That clutch pedal that was squishy before now just plain doesn't work.

How they are against other cars: Well it's a loaded question. We're talking about a mini from 1969 (or there abouts) which is ultra light class compared to what? A Commodore tripple it's weight and five times it's engine size? But if you are talking general then there are few cars out there that can out do a quick mini in the back streets. It would have to be a properly set up sports coupe like 200SX, Type R or WRX to match it in the twisty, low speed, agility-oriented roads. You just can't throw a commodore around corners and brake short distances like you can in a mini, as you probably already aware... Go Kart on steroids

In a straight line it will keep up with many modern cars easily. Put it this way: 120bhp is around 90KW in a 650kg car. A modern corolla is 100KW and 1200kg. So do your maths. As said a modern car with 150KW+ is roughly an even match to quick 1275, roughly...

I remember when I first got into my car after the engine rebuild and shouting out loud "GRAHAM YOU'VE BUILT MY A MONSTER!!!". I still feel that today actually...


IS THIS THE ANSWER YOU WANTED?

Next time you're in Sydney, give us a bell and you can go for a ride in mine and judge for yourself!

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PostPosted: Fri Aug 26, 2011 4:39 pm 
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Location: Rockingham - Collie WA
How does a good motor feel
Strong

what's the power feel Like vs a stage 1 1275?
Considerably quicker, hard to believe it's the same engine

Much difference between a 1330 and a 1380?
50cc :P but the increase in torque is noticeable

And How do they go against other cars..
You would still be given a hard time by a Hyundai Getz (manual 1.6L) in a straight out drag race. Corners are what mini's were made for.

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PostPosted: Fri Aug 26, 2011 4:58 pm 
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awdmoke wrote:
You would still be given a hard time by a Hyundai Getz (manual 1.6L) in a straight out drag race


What really? how many ponies are you running? Not many cars can do a 15sec quarter mile from factory?

http://www.albeedigital.com/supercoupe/ ... times.html

Hyundai Accent GSi 1.6L does 16.5s quarter mile according to above... many on here are running sub 15s. I ran a 15.8 on my first outing on A008's...

120bhp+ is what you want :lol:

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PostPosted: Fri Aug 26, 2011 5:41 pm 
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Previous engine was never on the dyno, although about 100 bananas seemed about right.
13" rims and a 3.44 diff was nice on the highway, and able to pull 100mph in third on the track, but definately did not make for a good drag car.

I think the current rebuild combined with a 7 port alloy head should get me closer to what I want :wink:

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PostPosted: Fri Aug 26, 2011 5:44 pm 
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awdmoke wrote:

And How do they go against other cars..
You would still be given a hard time by a Hyundai Getz (manual 1.6L) in a straight out drag race. Corners are what mini's were made for.



Whats wrong with your motor??? The 1410 stroker in the moke puts most cars to shame. Obviously not exotic sports cars but most common cars. :D


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PostPosted: Fri Aug 26, 2011 6:11 pm 
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Nowt (now).
Didn't say mine wasn't quicker, just wasn't that great as a drag car.
If I was building a drag car it wouldn't be FWD.

Anyway this build has seen a change to a 3.67 ratio and LSD, and will be hitting the dyno in a few months & will post up some G-tech 1/4 mile figures too.

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