Simple clarification, I think:

If engine is running, and I have verified there is a complete link from large alternator terminals to battery positive, and ignition light stays lit, then something in the alternator is shagged, yeah?

Unless light remains lit as long as battery is charging? (been sitting a while)

Hi.. I'm pretty sure the Alternator should have 3 wires. 2 rather thick ones go to the solenoid and the third goes to the dash cluster to turn off the red light. Can't walk to the car or reach a workshop manual at the moment to look because I can't get out of the chair as my knee is currently refusing to bend..

Ya there's two large spade terminals, but they are a common connection. I've never seen both hooked up (however my cars are always dodgy....).

Do you have internal reg , or external reg alternator ?
15 AC ( Ext reg ) will have 4 pins ( 2 large , 2 small )
16 ACR ( int reg ) will have 3 pins , ( 2 large , 1 small )

It sounds like your alt is not charging if light is still on when car is running. Have you checked the voltage at the battery with a multi meter, should be around 14.5 volts when engine is running , providing alt is charging .
I have just recently had a similar problem , and was shown a little trick on how to excite the alt to get it to start charging . With a test light , connect one end to 12 V at solenoid ,
and touch the other end on the" ind " ( small ) terminal ( 15AC ext reg alt ) you should hear the engine idle speed drop slightly , and the alt light should go out ,which means alt should be charging . Check voltage at battery to see what voltage it is getting .

What , You mean to say there are no Auto Electricians that know anything about our type of Minis in NZ ? Believe this is not a fault that any one can or should guess at as we can all be wrong in what we say or suggest. I have seen lots of mods done on minis especially when they are more than 30, 40 or 50 years old. Just be careful what you do as it might cost you more than a visit to your local sparky.

_________________
DID I MENTION THAT I AM THE BEST SUPPLIER FOR MINI ELECTRICAL PARTS AND REPAIRS?
"Let us remove your "SHORTS"

Convertable Mini, my Moke has a stock alternator that some bloke at Kippa Ring had a go at "upgrading". Now the charge light stays on from when I start the car until I hit about 2500rpm, then generally stays off unless idling for too long with headlights on. Any guess at a diagnosis?

I also have a Convertable Mini brand spanking new alternator in a box (had your buisness card in the box) that I can swap it with until the car it is destined for is ready. BUT the new alternator has room for only one of the big brown spade connectors. What should I do? Put only one on or get a doubler spade connecter thingo and put both onto one?

(sorry for the hijack but this is about alternator lights and connections)

M

Three pins two large (common) and one small. Haven't had a chance to check voltages etc, just noticed the light staying on while I was connecting up the throttle and choke and testing it.

I have another couple alternators I can try, was just trying to remember if the light went out when charging or only when charged before I take this one out and try another. Will trace all wiring first as well.



I'll stay silent for fear of offending....



I know the complete condition and history of the wiring in this car. I do not know the history of the alternator, hence the simple question. As you were....

Sorted. Circuit didn't like having an LED as the ignition warning light.

Will it work with the LED hooked up as well as the globe?
You could have the LED on the dash and the globe behind the dash or in the ash tray for that matter!

yeah dunno. Not sure if it's the diode effect of the LED (well it is a diode afterall...) or the power consumption that was the issue. One would mean I could probably run both, and one wouldn't. I'll put it on the "one day" list...

The ignition lamp circuit (with ignition on) provides excitation to the Lucas alternator field to get it to start charging. An LED alone doesn't pass enough juice for this to work... but a lamp in parallel should.

_________________
DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

Good call. Put an original dash light in parallel with the LED behind the dash (rather than change out the LED in the switch panel) and all working well.

Thanks muchly