Buying a rebuildable 1275 will cost extra (but see Mad Matt's for sale adds).

The cost of bearings, gaskets, labour and paint is virtually the same for any standard A series. Go with the 1098 you already have.

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Too many cars, and too little time.

Thanks for the help guys. I suppose it's gonna depend on how much i can spend and what i can get that's available to me. I will check out the for sale ads as suggested. thanks again guys

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Regards Kermit (TadPole)

A 1275 is also dearer if you don't already have disc brakes.

welll,,,, here`s a can of worms opening

sooooo many of you (nearly all of you) have suggested the 1100,,, here`s my spanner thrown in then

I reckon that if you could afford a 1275 then just do it,,, but yes, you`ll want/need disc to help stop crashing

but,,, in my opinion, the 998 engine is such a smooth little thing, they`re a very very nice little sweet donk,,, you can over-bore them quite a bit, making up the difference in capacity to the 1100,,, but obviously not as much as opening up an 1100 with it`s longer stroke, so still doing the same thing to an 1100 as you would with a 998 won`t make the 998 any better,,, so in the Torque dept, the 1100 wins

but in the reliability dept, i reckon the 998 wins,,, & to give you an idea to mull over-->

i have (in my short life time) pulled apart probably more mini engines than i reckon just about anyone else on this forum & in all that i`ve seen more stuffed 1100 cranks than 998s

soooooo,,,, for longevity/reliability, i`d go for an over-bored 998

but i`m Massively biased towards the 1275 (or more accurately the 1400cc & 1500cc) engines that i`d have to still suggest that if you can afford a 1275 & discs,,,then do it,,, they are stronger, they are MUCH more torque y & are not high maintenance at all when built properly

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No offence intended here but--> anyone writing a book about minis 30 years ago may not have experienced such worn or stuffed-with components as we are finding these days.

You should put your heart & soul into everything you do.

if you get the 1275 and just keep it stock at least you know you got the donk to do it all. SO later on if you want to chase power ... go to town on it.

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PrOuDlY aSkInG qUeStIoNs FoR uR aMuEsMeNt

Im a fan of a 998 with a set of GR's pistons, a good cam & a 12G295 head, theres one on my engine stand at the moment.

I 998 engined car has managed 4th outright at the Hay motorkhana too!!!

Doogie

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I won Hay once, here's the pic to prove it..


Hay, it's not about the car, it's not about the venue, it's about the people that come here. Peter Dwyer, Mayor of Hay NSW.

998 for me. Love that smooth high revving engine. Last forever.
060 oversize, mild cam, extractors, 13/4SU. little bit of head work and be very happy.

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The bitterness of poor quality (or Crappy Workmanship) remains LONG AFTER the Sweet Taste of Low Price is forgotten.

that is definately something to think about. what would a 1275 set me back?

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Regards Kermit (TadPole)

A long motor (block/crank/rods/cam/head etc), I'd say ~$500-$1000 for something to rebuild.
Then add about $2K in parts & machining, + labour.
Then add the goodies- carb, manifold, zorst, head work, cam, etc etc.

I'm building a 1365 stroker for a well known member at the moment...

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

what would parts roughly cost me just for the motor rebuild?

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Regards Kermit (TadPole)

primary gear & decent ancillarys, decent modified cooling system & dizzy graphed to suit,,, etc etc etc ,,, same principals as any engine build--> you need to sort/design/build a """Package""" no matter which engine you choose

do it wrong & it really doesn`t matter what engine you`ve built,,, do it right tho & you have a beauty that actually is fast & lasts

simple as that

but!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

the design/build,,, no matter what the engine,,, needs to be excecuted around a specific cam choice for the intended application

the correct question "Should be" --> cam choice? .... "That`s" where it all really starts

(or should start anyways)

then design/build it around that

if you can get a 1275 at a reasonable price,,,then why not???

if not, then choose the (then) most 2nd reliable mini engine in the world--> the 998

& work away with that, choosing a cam for your intended application/useage,,, & make sure all the rest of the engine-bits are all suited & all good condition items,,, & all fitted with respect & a knowlege of simple engineering principals & physics

now i`m babbling again,,, babbling into my own can of worms i am

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No offence intended here but--> anyone writing a book about minis 30 years ago may not have experienced such worn or stuffed-with components as we are finding these days.

You should put your heart & soul into everything you do.

oh,,, & now that we`re onto this topic,,, i reckon,,, when i get all my new roofing & new shelving done & all my muster parts & crap is all back into place,,, & the mech-pit is completed & concreated in 7 the wheel alignment rams are moved into their correct place & the new big phat steel beam is fitted into the shed & all these jobs & engines & etcs are all sorted,,, i`m gonna build 2 particular engines

one being a 998,,, fast-road type, still on pump fuel,,, just a std issue mini 5-port,,, that i reckon will blow everyone away

& another job to complete the Bimmer Twinky Conversion,,, --->>>>with the engine still in the car,,, Yep!!!,,, & video that one with my helmet cam

just to be a complete dill

if & when i get the time

anyone keen to sponsor the build of these 2 engines???

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No offence intended here but--> anyone writing a book about minis 30 years ago may not have experienced such worn or stuffed-with components as we are finding these days.

You should put your heart & soul into everything you do.

lol so i should pick the engine then select a cam and go from there?

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Regards Kermit (TadPole)