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PostPosted: Mon Oct 03, 2011 10:10 pm 
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Hi,

I am looking at purchasing an electronic distributor for my mini.

I have a Smiths RVI rev counter that is connected in series between the low tension lead of the distributor and the negative of the coil.

I have heard that these rev counters will not work with electronic distributors as the RVI rev counter relies on the breaker points for it's guide.

Has anyone fitted an electronic distributor with this type of rev counter and got it working??

thanks

Roc


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PostPosted: Mon Oct 03, 2011 11:16 pm 
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Yes, too long a story to tap out on the phone, will reply properly tomorrow ;)

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The adventures of an owner builder in the Tallarook Ranges

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 Post subject: tacho
PostPosted: Tue Oct 04, 2011 8:40 am 
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Hiya,

Cheaper and easier to buy a Smiths RVC tacho (about $150-$160 landed new from the UK) and sell your RVI on eBay here for $100 plus, if in good condition, maybe more.

That is what I would do (have done).

Works out about free :D

cheers! jon


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 Post subject: Re: tacho
PostPosted: Tue Oct 04, 2011 9:27 am 
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minsta wrote:
Cheaper and easier to buy a Smiths RVC tacho (about $150-$160 landed new from the UK)


May I ask where to get this from :?:

Cheers
Steve

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PostPosted: Tue Oct 04, 2011 9:36 am 
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http://www.minispares.com/Product.aspx? ... 691&title=
for example...

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PostPosted: Tue Oct 04, 2011 11:16 am 
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OK, now that I have a proper keyboard... ;)

I have a 4" Smiths RVI tach in my car, originally from an MGB. I also run a 123ignition electronic distributor.

The first thing to ask is, what sort of "electronic distributor" are you looking at? If it's a 123, or a Pertronix-style hall-effect kit then your RVI tach WILL work in exactly the same way as with points ignition. Mine did, although age overcame it and it did eventually stop working although this was unrelated to the electronic ignition. If you're planning to run a Megajolt or other computer, it will not work.

The way the RVI tach works is that it detects the current consumed by the coil when it charges between sparks, rather than the RVC-type which measures the voltage change on the negative side of the coil which is triggered by the points opening. Everything I read when I installed my RVI suggested that electronic ignition was too efficient and altered the charge timing of the coil in a way that the RVI tach wouldn't detect, but in my case with the 123ignition dizzy, that just didn't happen. The coil charged, and the tach detected it and it worked perfectly.

As above, my tach did eventually stop working but that was down to the germanium transistors which have a limited life and eventually die. I had mine retrofitted with electronic guts by an instrument shop, so it's now triggered by the impulse on the negative side of the coil (as per the RVC type) and not the charge current. Oh, and it's more accurate now ;)

Hope that helps :)

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The adventures of an owner builder in the Tallarook Ranges

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PostPosted: Tue Oct 04, 2011 2:32 pm 
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Thanks For the info guys!

Cheers

Roc


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