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PostPosted: Mon Oct 17, 2011 7:38 pm 
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998cc
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Location: Hunter Valley, NSW
Unfortunately the motor I have for the Moke build is not standard and untouched as thought :(

Pistons are already 0.040 and are marked as RA2216. Any ideas??

Can't find a record for that number - assuming it is still 998 - yet to get to the crank. Too late now to go back and measure the stroke :roll:

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1979 Moke Californian + 1981 'Coke' Moke


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PostPosted: Tue Oct 18, 2011 10:30 am 
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If the head is off, put 1 piston at TDC and measure from deck down to the one next to it - whatever the deck height is = stroke.
If head is on, measure from top of plug hole down to pistons, difference = stroke.

[edit] sounds like pistons are out, so look at crank- a yellow dab of paint and p/no 12G82 = 1098 crank.

also if bottom of piston skirt is flat = 998
if curved = 1098.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R. :mrgreen:


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PostPosted: Tue Oct 18, 2011 7:10 pm 
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998cc
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Thanks Kev.

Finished the dismantle today and have all the pistons rods and crank out. spilt the gearbox from the block, removed oil pump etc. It is a 998.

Was dreading trying to get the fly wheel off and was about to go to the mechanic to borrow the puller but tried your hair dryer on the flywheel trick and then a few taps from within the starter motor area on the back of the flywheel and it just fell off in my hands. :D

Actually have to say that everything inside the engine has only been hand tight - even the rod bolts. :shock:

So the pistons are already 0.040. #1, #2, #3 had the top ring broken while #4 had two broken rings. Bad lip on #4 and will get it measured to see if I can still get away with some 0.080 new flat tops. What causes rings to break (maybe done when installed)?

Big ends are -0.010 and bearings look OK. Crank is also -0.010 and look OK so maybe only a linnish and new bearings here.

Cam looks really good - so maybe replaced before - has a green band on it?????

Will let you know what else pops up.

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Dave K.
1979 Moke Californian + 1981 'Coke' Moke


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PostPosted: Tue Oct 18, 2011 7:36 pm 
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what is the weights of the rods and are they stright

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PostPosted: Tue Oct 18, 2011 8:41 pm 
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Rings seldom break on assembly, but when the bores get worn oval and tapered the rings flex in and out every stroke. They are only cast iron, and can break from this fatigue. They are probably 20 years old too.
Having worn grooves doesn't help, either.
I'm sure +.080s will be fine, as .040" is a lot of metal to take out, it will be no problem.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R. :mrgreen:


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PostPosted: Tue Oct 18, 2011 9:06 pm 
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998cc
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gafmo wrote:
what is the weights of the rods and are they stright


Don't know Jim. How do you check if the rods are straight?

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1979 Moke Californian + 1981 'Coke' Moke


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PostPosted: Tue Oct 18, 2011 9:36 pm 
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miniDave wrote:
gafmo wrote:
what is the weights of the rods and are they stright


Don't know Jim. How do you check if the rods are straight?

I take them to GR's, he has a test jig to check for straightness and twist.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R. :mrgreen:


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