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PostPosted: Thu Dec 08, 2011 8:09 am 
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i know this may be a bit much for you atm JC but my new turbo 4x4 hillclimb buggy will be using "in-board" disc brakes, both front & rear

Are you thinking about that too or just trying to keep costs down at this point?

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PostPosted: Fri Dec 09, 2011 7:56 am 
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TheMiniMan wrote:
i know this may be a bit much for you atm JC but my new turbo 4x4 hillclimb buggy will be using "in-board" disc brakes, both front & rear

Are you thinking about that too or just trying to keep costs down at this point?


I did actually contemplate that matt. I figured rather than using the inner cv, get a uni joint made up the also facilitates the inboard brake set up. It simplifies the hub arrangement and also increase the chances of using 10" wheels. But I reckon that may be a second iteration. I am really quite limited in the 'fabrication' I can do personally.

Oh, I won that zx14 auction too...

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PostPosted: Fri Dec 09, 2011 2:12 pm 
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http://www.bikeland.org/misc/zx14/modeinformation2.pdf

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PostPosted: Fri Dec 09, 2011 2:48 pm 
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JC wrote:
So these are the options Ive come up with. If anyone has some alternatives please contribute. I am not an engineer, I just like visualising things.

Option 1
This retains the majority of the factory gtir components.
Image

Option 2
This "looks and acts" like a mini subframe that houses the diff. The custom components are the trailing arm/hub/brake mount and the cradle that locates/positions the diff.

The benefit of this option is that the trailing arm is custom made so that the wheel retains its factory position in the wheel weel (centered on the wheel well, up and down movement of the shock is in line with how its meant to be). Im concerned with utilising the factory gtir suspension that the bottom arm that mounts to the hub and goes forward to the front of the cradle may protude beyond the "opening" in the boot floor for the mini subframe.
Image


Edit:
Actually, I've never thought about this before but wouldn't the fact mounting of the rear trailer arm cuase the wheel to move on a "pivot"? I mean as the wheel rises and falls it swings on a curved plan rather than straight up and down. That would have to mess with suspension geometry wouldn't it?


Never use trailing arm suspension if you can help it - it causes 'jacking' of the suspension when induced body roll happens!!

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PostPosted: Fri Dec 09, 2011 2:53 pm 
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JC,

Congrats on the ZX14 - good buy.

Did you get the instrumentation with them as they use a CAN-BUS arrangement on the wiring loom which means you cant just use any type of instruments!!

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PostPosted: Fri Dec 09, 2011 3:02 pm 
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Archangel007 wrote:
JC,

Congrats on the ZX14 - good buy.

Did you get the instrumentation with them as they use a CAN-BUS arrangement on the wiring loom which means you cant just use any type of instruments!!


Yep, made sure I got one with everything required for it to run (but for the exhaust of course). Auction for exhaust ends tomorrow.

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PostPosted: Fri Dec 09, 2011 8:54 pm 
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mate you`ll most probably need to make you`re own exhaust system up,,,so even if you win it to get the first bits then cool,,, it`s just the start of the pipes that bolt to the head is all you need to make up a new system from because i`m pretty sure you`ll find that the std system won`t fit your intended frame/body/direction design

I mean you could make it all up, but if you have the 'spuds & the plates" then that`s a start,,, the rest of the standard system is probably no good to you

but still i don`t have a clue what you`re building yet :-)

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No offence intended here but--> anyone writing a book about minis 30 years ago may not have experienced such worn or stuffed-with components as we are finding these days.

You should put your heart & soul into everything you do.


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PostPosted: Fri Dec 09, 2011 11:20 pm 
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TheMiniMan wrote:
mate you`ll most probably need to make you`re own exhaust system up,,,so even if you win it to get the first bits then cool,,, it`s just the start of the pipes that bolt to the head is all you need to make up a new system from because i`m pretty sure you`ll find that the std system won`t fit your intended frame/body/direction design

I mean you could make it all up, but if you have the 'spuds & the plates" then that`s a start,,, the rest of the standard system is probably no good to you

but still i don`t have a clue what you`re building yet :-)


yeah I was just going to grab the exhaust as a template. Its only $60. I've seen a few turbo manifolds that are fairly compact. At $850 though hard to justify. The turbo option isn't about power, but rather a simplified exhaust solution (but more complicated intake onviously).

This is essentially what will be under the engine bay.

Image
You can't see it in this picture but the clutch housing actually pokes out through a cuttng in the grille. Fortunately by all accounts to the ZX14 is no bigger where it matters.

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PostPosted: Sat Dec 10, 2011 2:17 pm 
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JC,

Congrats on the engine! should be really fun.

I am wondering if the Kawasaki GTR1400/Concours 14 engine would fit? It is a lower power, longer engine life version for long distance touring, police bikes etc. I don't know if the gearset is more robust for high km expectation or it is just the 90 degree output fitted to make the bike shaft drive??

Being a shaft drive the engine would be transverse but the way bike engines lean forward I wonder if it would fit in a roundy without coming through the bonnet or clashing with the rack?

Here's one available that I'd like if it would fit:


http://www.ebay.com/itm/2008-KAWASAKI-Z ... 3a6d16a407

M


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PostPosted: Sat Dec 10, 2011 7:51 pm 
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here, watch this--> http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZR2JjsHKBNU&feature=related

The 2 kids in the front seat at around the minute mark are Tricky & JC when they were a little younger & this little rocket is the culmination of all their years of hard work & lateral thinking

:-)

I know , i know,,, i`m a naughty boy,,,, i`m sorry but i just couldn`t keep it a secret any longer guys, sorry :-)

& now This--> http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Pwa1GM6dffw&feature=related is how they spend their time these days :-)

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No offence intended here but--> anyone writing a book about minis 30 years ago may not have experienced such worn or stuffed-with components as we are finding these days.

You should put your heart & soul into everything you do.


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PostPosted: Sat Dec 10, 2011 9:35 pm 
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Hey JC,

Perhaps you might want to run it N/A first up just to get the install complete and the bugs ironed out, then boost later...??

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PostPosted: Sat Dec 10, 2011 9:47 pm 
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Quote:
The 2 kids in the front seat at around the minute mark are Tricky & JC when they were a little younger & this little rocket is the culmination of all their years of hard work & lateral thinking


You notice that they still had the plastic on the seats due to JC's toileting habits...... :wink:

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PostPosted: Mon Dec 12, 2011 11:02 am 
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Archangel007 wrote:
Hey JC,

Perhaps you might want to run it N/A first up just to get the install complete and the bugs ironed out, then boost later...??


I guess I need to eyeball it to see it all together.

I'm actually comtemplating making it FWD drive for simplicity.

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PostPosted: Mon Dec 12, 2011 11:44 am 
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ah,,, words of a true purist :-)

well,,,sort of :-)

edit-->,,, i have to admit,,, in Nth/Sth orientation it does look pretty messy & out of place hey? & i mean it "REALLY" does hey???

i reckon you either fwd it with the reverse type diff i showed you previously (great all-round handling like my buggy)

or you rear/mid engine with rear drive it as per Z-cars design (very good grip & very go-kart like handling)

either way , both of those designs will be lighter than front engine with rear drive,,, & i`d expect both would have far better traction & handling characteristics also

so,,, either way they`re both far better designs than front engine with rear drive (in my books anyways)--> those aussie legends are very twitchy-nervous little things i hope you guys know that!!!????

but,,, then again (& now i`m waffling/blabbering again/still) i still reckon a really light-weight 4x4 with turbo bike engine is the go,,, -->basically what i`m doin with my new car but you guys want a steel mini body-shell on top yeah?

But,,, the only problem is--> "my" design is soooo top secret & sooo awesomely amazing that if i showed you then i`d have to kill you :-)

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No offence intended here but--> anyone writing a book about minis 30 years ago may not have experienced such worn or stuffed-with components as we are finding these days.

You should put your heart & soul into everything you do.


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PostPosted: Mon Dec 12, 2011 12:34 pm 
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JC wrote:
Archangel007 wrote:
Hey JC,

Perhaps you might want to run it N/A first up just to get the install complete and the bugs ironed out, then boost later...??


I guess I need to eyeball it to see it all together.

I'm actually comtemplating making it FWD drive for simplicity.


I think from what i have seen that the KISS principle would apply here. I think I would keep it front engined and FWD - you would be used to driving it that way too!

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