Hello all just after help choosing coolant for our 1098. Cheers tsb

Any good quality coolant but dont be tempted to use too much 500ml is more than enough and make sure you add 300ml of rust inhibitor , the total system is 3.55 litres so if you drain the system and refill with water by measured buckets and it does,nt get to 3.55 litres then you have blockages , radiator needs re-coring , block has passages blocked etc

If you have problems , first check if the cap , if the cap no longer fits and makes a seal you no longer have a system that sealed , I,ve got a cap pressure tester my system was loosing water so I checked the cap , all bad , new 13lb cap , all good

.

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500ml concentrated or not? Rust inhibitor, can u buy this from auto shops? Ta

I use Nulon green coolant concentrate (glycol) 25% + water.
I change it every year or two, never had a problem.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

DrMini and I use the same radiator reconditioner and he recommends Nulon.

I've recently been doing a bit of research for one of my other cars and for those cars (with wet sleeve liners) is says to stay away from the red coloured coolants with OAT's corrosion inhibitor (Organic Acid Technology) instead of the IAT's (Inorganic Additive Technology - usually green coloured).

The red coloured coolants are also said to damage Silicon based gaskets and sealants as well. Google what has happened to some Rolls Royce owners using the red coloured "cordials"

I started using Penrite Sin as it was a non-glycol based coolant recommended for motorsports. It will be dumped out now first chance I get.

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Redline's Water Wetter is very good. Not a corrosive inhibiter but definitely a coolant.

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The bitterness of poor quality (or Crappy Workmanship) remains LONG AFTER the Sweet Taste of Low Price is forgotten.

I Highly recommend straight rainwater direct from your bird dropping coverd roof to your radiator guaranteed to be full of nutrients

If you have rebuilt as many heads as I have, you can tell who used coolant the last 30 years, and who didn't.. just pull the thermostat out and look below.
And if the head is full of rust and corrosion, guess what's clogging your radiator.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

I will say this till I die. Toyota LONGLIFE Coolant (RED) is the far better one from the lot. I speak from results of electrical tests I have personally conducted. Every other coolant we tested acted like an accumulator and produced electrical charges (with the car battery disconnect too) which in turn cause electrolysis. Sorry I can not name the ones "not to use". But I highly recommend the Toyota longlife stuff. I use it in all my cars alloy head or not.
PS.
MAKE SURE YOU FLUSH THE SYSTEM THOROUGHLY BEFORE PUTTING THIS STUFF IN and also that the system has no blockages, Clean Radiator, a good pump and thermostat. Remember Coolant does not fix overheating problems.

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DID I MENTION THAT I AM THE BEST SUPPLIER FOR MINI ELECTRICAL PARTS AND REPAIRS?
"Let us remove your "SHORTS"

But does it make good hydrolastic fluid?

The Nulon Long Life concentrate does both jobs!

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1967 Cooper S - new front bearings to do.
1965 Cooper S shell - Slow progress. No time or money!
1966 Deluxe- next rustoration!
Mk 2 & XJ6 Jags. Less said the better.

Whatever you use, I believe it should be Glycol based for a Mini. Red ones are usually long life and not suitable for older cars. Shell sell an OAT (Organic Acid Technology) product. It eats solder and has bad effects on copper so beware of any that state they are long life.

Before I knew all this, I added Shell OAT coolant to two Mk1's, thinking modern must be better. Some time later, it seemed to be showing pick crystals at the hose ends, water pump seals were leaking and there was also some weaping form the head gaskets. I mentioned this to Shell and the told me pretty much what I have repeated above. I dropped it out, throroughly flushed the systems and then added a Glycol based coolant. The pumps stopped dripping and there has been no sign of weaping anywhere it was before. I have since read other articles reporting similar problems to mine. For what it's worth guys !!

Al

I use the green coloured Nulon Ultra Cool (non glycol) mix it with distilled water and add Redline Water Wetter.

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Slide
1965 Mini Van (1360)
1970 Mk2 Cooper S (1310)
1978 Rover SD1 V8 (4.6)
1996 Land Rover Discovery V8 (4.0)