Ok so i set the static timing with my multimeter, however when it says to make sure it reads 12 volts, then turn the dissy until it doesnt read anything then dial it back until you read 12 volts again. Im not getting 12 volts all im getting is 6, if that makes any sense.

Also when cranking the motor over im only getting 9.5 volts to the coil.

Not sure what else to do.

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Where are you located, maybe someone nearby can take a look.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

West hoxton, liverpool way.

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Just tried a new coil, still didnt start. Anyone know a decent auto electrician that knows minis?

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20k Mark? Are you getting the new multimeter to measure volts (V) or resistance (Ohms)? Different Usages for this. Testing across the battery is good to ensure it is working well.

I had new electronic points fitted to replace the mechnical ones. But the 40 yr old wiring didn't like to be fiddled with. Started to miss alot. The wire near the connections were weak and corroded. Removed the older connections and used new connectors.

I'd focus on getting 12V where you need it first. Was all this sorted?
Cheers.

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2009 Mini Cooper JCW - Roger
1967 Mini Deluxe Mk1 - Ruby

Nope still not sorted, the numbers i gave before was the resistance of the coil.

Can i run a wire from the fuse box or battery straight to the coil in order to get 12 volts? Not sure why its dropping to 9.5 volts at the coil when cranking.

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The coil already gets its `12V' from the switched fuse...
It drops to 9.5V or so due to the voltage drop in the battery cable, due to the starter. Starters use a lot of juice, up to 200A or so.

This is why ballast resistor 1.5 ohm coils were invented- during starting with the ballast resistor bypassed they give full output with 8V or so input, then when started the 12V gets reduced to 8V or so by the ballast resistor.
IF the ballast is wired correctly- not all cars are.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

Ok so its normal to get around 9.5 volts during startup on a non ballast coil, since my coil is non ballasted because im reading more then 1.5 ohms on my coil.

If thats not the problem what else could it be? Is there a way i can test the actual electronic module?

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I tested mine on the bench in the dizzy.
Put a [-12V] lead from battery to the dizzy body.
Hook the 2 wires from the module onto the coil, the right way round.
Put a plug lead into the coil with a spark plug ,and tie the plug body to the coil.
Hook up +12V to the [+] terminal on the coil.
Spin the dizzy anti-clockwise from top and you should get sparks at the plug.
Do NOT leave it all connected to power for more than 30-40 secs not running, or it may kill the module. I've managed to do this once...

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

Is this the same for testing it in the car? I dont understand the "Put a plug lead into the coil with a spark plug ,and tie the plug body to the coil, part.

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Yes it is the same as in the car. If it is on the bench you need to complete the H/T circuit from the plug body back to the coil body, in the car this happens anyway because the plug and the coil are both attached to the car and engine.
Putting a plug & plug lead directly into the coil just allows me to test the coil and dizzy without worrying if the dizzy cap has a problem (cracked damp etc).

In your case it is already all installed, so just check your connections.
If you have power to the coil, both dizzy module wires connected, and the rotor/magnet ring installed but getting no spark at the plugs, IMO you may have a dud module.
take out all the plugs and connect just one to the dizzy, sit it on the head and look for spark when cranking.
If the plugs are all black you may have already wet them with fuel, and no sparky. If so, try a new or fresh one for spark checking (even one out of the mower will do)

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

Ok took all the leads from the dissy, only left the coil and 1 spark plug. Cranked it with the spark plug resting against the head and no spark. My plugs are only 2 or so weeks old. Still getting 12 volts to the coil and my connections from the module are new.

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You may need to go back to the points and start afresh, I think we're chasing a number of faults here.

1. Incorrect timing
2. A damaged ignition module
3. flipped module leads.



What colour lead goes to the -ve side of the coil?
What colour lead goes to the +ve side of the coil?

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SooperDooperMiniCooperExpertEngineering

All garage work involves equal measures of enthusiasm, ingenuity and a fair degree of irresponsibility.

Black is negative on the coil, red is positive. Only other wire going to the coil is a white one coming from the ignition i presume, it goes to the positive aswell.

I statically timed the dissy. If timing was off wouldnt it still produce a spark?

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It would, repeat the exercise but with only the lead from the coil fitted, and with the other end loose. If the loose end produces a spark against the block, then we're on our way. If the coil HT lead does not, then we have a fault with the module, or the coil.

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SooperDooperMiniCooperExpertEngineering

All garage work involves equal measures of enthusiasm, ingenuity and a fair degree of irresponsibility.