it's very common to have a leak up one of the studs/bolts, if I get a leak, I put a bit of silastic around the bolt (in my case) and under the washer and let it seal up there

in my case it leaks because the head is corroded around the thermostat lip and can't get a good seal between the lip and the bolt hole

my car is spewing water out after I turn it off - the cap is only 10 months old, so I don't want that to be the problem. The lip inside the radiator neck (on the radiator itself) isn't particularly smooth, which may be a contributor. I'm thinking about putting an O ring around the base of the neck. Shooting a laser temperature thingy at the engine while it's idling and nothing is over 90 degrees... radiator is 80. Pressure testing shows no leakage

It's just when you turn the engine off, the water isn't circulating anymore so you get hotspots boiling and steam pushes the cap open. When the cap opens, the pressure is released so the boiling point drops and any water that was close to boiling starts to boil and out it comes...

It does help to not fill the radiator to the brim as well, the proper level is about 1" below the base of the neck. The air gap is needed for expansion

Thanks everyone who helped a real n00b with advice on this one. The face of the housing was badly corroded, so replacing this, a couple of new paper gaskets and some loctite gasket sealant seems to have stopped it leaking out of the thermostat housing. It dribbled a little out of the overflow hose when I stopped it the first time, but I'm thinking I just overfilled it as it didn't happen again (I have only driven the car once since doing it, though

Just saying thanks, basically

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'77 Leyland Mini Van

So. Currently sitting on the side of the highway. Been driving for 20minutes. Temp gauge nudging red so figured I'd pull over. Turn engine off without thinking. Coolant dumps. Fark. Problem now made worse. Anyway, while I'm waiting for her to cool down I'm trying to think what else it could be.

At this point I'm at either the water pump or an issue with the head gasket. Which is going to be easier to rule out?

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'77 Leyland Mini Van

Timing? Water gallery blockage? Water leaking from somewhere?
Could be a whole number of issues!

Good point regarding the overheating

My timing probably is out. Have also noticed I can't make it stall by adjusting the idle,so there's a problem there also (worn I'm assuming) . But I can't see why that would cause my coolant to escape when I turn it off. Once i can sort this problem, the others shouldn't be a big deal. Hopefully

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'77 Leyland Mini Van

did you actually replace the radiator cap? CPC 517-13

I ended up replacing mine, even though the old one was only 10 months old, the new one did stop it from dumping the water when I turned it off

It's still getting hotter than I'd like, but at least the water's staying in the radiator



that's not a problem, the idle adjustment is there for that reason, if you can't make the engine conk out by adjusting the idle screw all the way out, then there is a wear problem

When I first fitted my 123 dizzy a few years ago, I incorrectly statically-timed it and it was way too far advanced. On a test run of only a few hundred metres up the road, it very nearly overheated. Timing can make a big difference.

Your coolant is escaping when you shut the engine off because when the engine stops, the coolant stops circulating around the cylinders and it boils, flashing to steam. This exceeds the system's 13psi limit and the liquid in the radiator is forced out.

Your carb may well be worn, but I can't see how that would affect your running temperature.

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Simon

The adventures of an owner builder in the Tallarook Ranges

Hi Simon,

That was pretty much the first thing I did. No change, unfortunately.

Regarding the idle screw I can't get it to stall, that's why I think it probably needs reconditioning/replacement. I put an overhaul kit through it, but I'm not familiar enough with them to have spotted any wear, etc.I pretty much just cleaned it out, replaced the bits that were in the kit and bolted it back on.

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'77 Leyland Mini Van

sorry, I read it the wrong way - I thought you said "can" ...

It's worth taking the radiator out, flush the engine with clean water, flush the radiator both ways with clean water & shake it like hell, and take the water pump off & inspect while the radiator is out. New water pumps are cheap anyway

then you've ruled that out and can move on to timing etc.

Sounds an awfully like you have a vacuum leak on the manifold or carby. What colour are your spark plugs?

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Finally home. It didn't over heat again, probably only a couple of mm away from the 'Danger' zone, though, and when I stopped this time only a very small amount of coolant was expelled, so maybe it just had too much coolant in it still and was just sorting itself out when I stoppedon the highway.

Is it a big job to take the radiator out? Sounds like it's probably a weekender at least for the inexperienced like me

I wont be able to look at the car until Friday or Saturday again, but I'll have a look at the plugs then and report back.

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'77 Leyland Mini Van

If replacing the radiator cap. MAKE SURE YOU GET THE RIGHT ONE!!!!

My brother had the wrong one on his 1100cc mini and i think he ended up blowing 3 welch (spelling?) plugs clean out of the block. Very painful to have to fix on the side of the road. It was good it was the ones on the front and not the side ones.

Because water/ steam expands with heat and will take the easiest exit and if the wrong cap sometimes they cannot compress enough to release the pressure so welch plug is forced out.

Sorry not sure which is the correct part number.

Radiator out and replace with new one, probably allow 1/2 a day. 4-5 hrs should be plenty for someone who hasnt done it before.

There are 2 basic ways to do it

* Leave everything in situ and remove braket, then upper pipes, then upper shroud and then undo bottom water pipe and bottom shroud and then try to wedge them out. (this is the way i do mine)

*or you can undo the passenger side engine mount and then jack one side up and undo and the extra space allows you to pull the whole radiator out. (there is a how to in the "how to" section) but the space is very tight. THis is how lots of people do it.

Good luck

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Hi Gotta Van,
I know that this is a pretty simple idea, when I got my mini the radiator was dumping coolent every time ..., chased all sorts of solutions ..., turned out to be the wrong radiator cap for the radiator. I found I had a short neck cap on the radiator instead of a long neck cap Just a thought. check that!

Cheers Pete

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December 1976 Leyland Mini S aka 'The Brick'
2012 Toyota Prado GX aka 'The Truck'
"Where The Hell is ARDLETHAN!!"

Alright, alright, alright. Radiator caps isn't radiator caps and vans isn't clubmans when it comes to them maybe.

Went to Repco: "I can't find the part no. in our system."
Spend the next 20 minutes while the guy compares the old one to all the others on the rack.
"This one's a bit longer."
It is the same cap. Don't buy it.

Go to Supercheap *hack* *wheeze* *cough*: "According to our system it's this one."
Hands me the same cap as I have. Say "Thanks." Put cap back on shelf. Look at CPC parts book on the shelf. It states Clubman 4cyl needs a recovery cap p/no 543 13 (the one I have). Next line it lists "Mini van" which needs non-recovery cap p/no 517 13. Supercheap do not have.

Go back to Repco. Guy still can't operate a computer. Can't crossmatch with the Repco parts.

Driving home, see an AutoOne store, which I've always experienced as never having much except overpriced, limited stock. Walk in. "I'm looking for a 517 13 cap."

"Here you go."



So hopefully I have the correct one now. It is a fair bit longer so as Bubbaclubby and Pete have suggested, hopefully this has been the cause of all my problems. I'll take it for a spin tomorrow morning and see what happens.

Why would the clubman and the van require different caps anyway? Did clubmans have a recovery tank and vans not?

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'77 Leyland Mini Van

Hi gotta van,
well I'll ask the bleeding obvious...., How did the van go with its new radiator cap?? As to the issue of different caps for the vans & clubbies, there shouldn't be as far as I know. Someone will clarify if they know. My leyland mini S has NO recovery bottle, therefore needs a non recovery cap so the expanded coolent mix can overflow down the rubber hose on the side of the radiator. The issue I was pointing out is, If your mini has its original radiator in it, the neck on the top tank can either be short or long.

Cheers Pete

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December 1976 Leyland Mini S aka 'The Brick'
2012 Toyota Prado GX aka 'The Truck'
"Where The Hell is ARDLETHAN!!"