Well not quite.... But it will be if it keeps this bullsh*t up......

Some may remember I had an issue a little while back with the car breaking down and the cause being a faulty rotor button, after a new dizzy cap, pertronix module, coil were fitted.... Rotor button was the last thing to replace even though it itself was most likely 100klm old. 

So since then I havnt had a chance to drive the car again after getting it started. 

I've just gone about 2klm and had the car fail 6 times. After waiting on the side of the Rd for 5mins it would go again for another few hundred metres..... Ign would break down pop n fart then die....

The final time it failed it would not re start but luckily I was at the top of a large hill on the home straight and some how managed to roll down a few streets till I got to my driveway.  Where I confirmed it was dead as a door nail...

Confirmed 12v at coil, Swapped the pertronix out with a brand new one. Still no good, fitted Bosch gt 40 coil, still dead. 

Raced down to the auto shop and bought a fuelmiser brand rotor button. Popped it in and BANG... Away it goes. Fitted the Bosch one back in.... Dead....

WTF IS GOING ON HERE.... Why have a had two brand new Bosch rotor buttons fail with minimal use??? The plastic/Bakerlite must be breaking down and shorting he HT to GND.... WHY..... WHY.... WHY....

This car is at the end of a very short tether with me at the moment. Driven 5 times in 12 months and failed every single time. 


This is as far as the POS got... couldnt push it up the hill...

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http://www.youtube.com/user/Hanras

Stop fitting new parts. Old parts are more reliable, they have been tested in operating conditions.

The only reason any parts were fitted was because about 10mths ago, at a club run, I forgot my keys to lock the car. So I pulled the old original trusty rotor button out, but come time to re-fit it. I found the dizzy shaft had pulled out of place and wouldnt allow the dizzy cap to be re-fitted. In frustration, I tried jamming the cap on and doing this damaged the rotor button.

Once the car was home, I pulled the dizzy out and sent it away for repairs, as an advance weight spring was broken to. Once refitted I put in a new Bosch rotor button.

Since that incident, I blew the Pertronix up by fitting and MSD coil (my mistake). Now Ive had two bosch rotor buttons fail me.....

Ive now refitted the type that I had in before all this started. Its a fuelmiser brand and is more plastic then bakerlite.

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http://www.youtube.com/user/Hanras

Bosch rotors are now made in China and have been a problem for a while.
Ditto with their condensers- they had a bad run a year or two ago.
Lucas coils too.
`Australian made' quality is hard to find now everything is imported..

What Morris said- either find good S/H, or insist on another brand.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

Well its now got the Fuelmiser brand rotor button fitted again. This is the type that I had years of use out of without fail.

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http://www.youtube.com/user/Hanras

Did you oil the distributor at all? Bakelite will soak up oil thrown up at it and short down to ground.

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SooperDooperMiniCooperExpertEngineering

All garage work involves equal measures of enthusiasm, ingenuity and a fair degree of irresponsibility.

No oil. No grease. But I did spray the rotor button with a deoxit spray on use on electrical contacts at work.

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http://www.youtube.com/user/Hanras

Give me your mini

That stuff is like electra clean yeah? Good luck with the new one! Its a pretty rare thing to ruin the button twice in 6 months...

I wouldn't have figured a cleaner would cause a breakdown in the bakelite, but I probably wouldn't go near it any more with any chemical.....

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SooperDooperMiniCooperExpertEngineering

All garage work involves equal measures of enthusiasm, ingenuity and a fair degree of irresponsibility.

This stuff here:

I use it every day and it's never caused a problem with anything else....

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http://www.youtube.com/user/Hanras

It's only going to break down on you...

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http://www.youtube.com/user/Hanras

Try squirting the Fuelmiser one with Deoxit and see what happens.

I would bet the Chinese Quality Bosch one has microcracks in it, stick it under a microscope..
But never mind the quality son, look at the price!!

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

Is it a good idea to spray a conductivity enhancer on a non-conductive item?

It was only sprayed on the metal contact area. It wasn't soaked in it. I'll leave it off te fuelmiser one. But the first rotor that failed never had anything sprayed on it.

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http://www.youtube.com/user/Hanras