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PostPosted: Tue Apr 03, 2012 3:17 pm 
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Joined: Sat Apr 30, 2011 7:18 am
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Location: Gold Coast
Opened up my package from Minisport England which had lots of boring rebuild bits (brake hoses, subframe mount kit, knuckle joints etc) but also had my new front grill. First thing I did was screw it onto the front! Hmmm shiny..... 8)

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PostPosted: Tue Apr 03, 2012 8:13 pm 
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Joined: Tue Sep 15, 2009 11:12 am
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Location: Quakers Hill Sydney
Got it running, and a bunch of rust replaced.

Big step forward!

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PostPosted: Wed Apr 04, 2012 1:27 am 
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drmini in aust wrote:
Bolted the head on the 1380 stroker block I'm rebuilding, stood it on its oil pump end and filled the water jacket up with 1/2.5 mix of molasses/water. The block has a fair bit of rust in there even though it's had the welch plugs out, been degreased and gurneyed twice, which got all the loose stuff out.

I'll leave it in for a week or 2, hose it out and repeat once or twice. :P


Chelation of cast iron for that long is a poor idea, It will reduce the strength of the iron and being cast it will be able to penetrate quite deeply.

You are better off using a method like electrolysis as it can differentiate between the rust and cause no measurable disturbance to the iron.
breaking ionic or covelants bonds it comes down too.

Or better yet spring for a hot dip its not expensive at all.


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PostPosted: Wed Apr 04, 2012 1:43 pm 
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Location: near Baulkham Hills, NSW
Electrolysis in a tank won't work at all well, the rust is all inside the water jacket.
I've only filled the water jacket here, not submerged the whole thing.

I'm not hot tanking it, as it's already had new cam bearings fitted.

Using molasses for rust removal is a recognized process, it's been used for years by many folks here and overseas restoring antique engines, pumps, stoves etc, also by some well known Mini engine builders.
Here's a vid-
http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=en ... innXk&NR=1

Also, http://www.homercidal.com/molasses/
Note it says here the metal underneath is unaffected.

If it looks reasonable after 1 week, that'll do me. :wink:

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R. :mrgreen:


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PostPosted: Wed Apr 04, 2012 5:31 pm 
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At the very top of that site is says it is unsafe for cast metals, specifically zinc but "It is not clear what other metals may also be affected by this process, so use caution."

Molasses for rust removal is NOT a recognized process. Think of food grade pipes dealing with sugar cane mulch etc, none of those are going to be cast iron. and there are very specific standards as to why. I dont know any machine shop that uses a molasses bath they all hot tank.

Its very simple science as to why it works and to why it wont only stop at eating the rust like electrolysis will. It will look reasonable no doubt, but the metal will be weakened.

You can use a bubbler with electrolysis to get into the jackets. Or assemble the cooling system and run a safe commercial cleaner through.

It may have been used by mini builders back in the day but back in the day asbestos was thought to be safe.


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PostPosted: Wed Apr 04, 2012 6:03 pm 
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Joined: Mon Jul 26, 2004 7:23 am
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Location: Sunny Shine Coast, Qld Australia
Molasses is not used commercially as it is a slooow process - takes a week or more to get a result . Modern techniques can get it done in a couple of hours or overnight - time is money. I've used it on cast with no drama - with all things give it a good wash with clean water after and a bath in something like diesel if not using straight away to get rid of the moisture or you will end back at square one.

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PostPosted: Wed Apr 04, 2012 6:35 pm 
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Joined: Sat May 02, 2009 4:53 pm
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Location: Port Stephens, a little north of Newcastle, Australia
My father when he restored his T Model, he had a forty four gallon drum cut in half and
filled with molasses and he would drop steel bits into.
He said it was no good for cleaning aluminium parts.
Good for your body, I've had a nice big dose of blackstrap everyday for the last ten years.
<Edit> This guy has done a set of drums, that would be a test on whether any substantial weakening of the metal. I wonder if he has started using them.
http://www.homercidal.com/molasses/Mustang_Drums.htm


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PostPosted: Wed Apr 04, 2012 7:31 pm 
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Location: near Baulkham Hills, NSW
I know a bloke on here who used an old S/S sink for a molasses tank to clean Mini and other stuff, however the drain plug was alloy..
All went well for years, until one day... :( woops! :lol:

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R. :mrgreen:


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PostPosted: Thu Apr 05, 2012 4:04 pm 
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Joined: Wed Jun 30, 2010 8:02 pm
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Location: Woody Point 4019
Registered my mini after 18mths off the road and got to drive again! Wohoo!!

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PostPosted: Thu Apr 05, 2012 5:03 pm 
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Joined: Mon Feb 21, 2011 7:13 am
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Location: Blue Mountains, NSW
Hooked up the engine breathers, tidied up some wiring, fitted windscreen wipers and washers and a few other little bits and pieces, fitted the bonnet and closed it...and now I can't get it open again. Bugger!

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PostPosted: Fri Apr 06, 2012 7:27 pm 
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Joined: Sat Nov 19, 2005 1:37 pm
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Location: Vegus, Brisvegus
Did the manual valve grind/lap thing to the moke's head. The exhaust valves were quite pitted on the seating area, inlets fine and all seats in the head had minor spots even though they are hardened unleaded inserts.

What a PITA job using the little wooden tool with the suction cup on the end and grinding paste. I must have taken 3 hours to do it.

Had to explain to the wife why I came back from some alone time in the shed with sore hands and red palms!

The head now just needs a clean and it is ready to go back on. There is more work to do with the primary and drop gear end float and a new clutch to set up. I am hoping for decent progress this weekend.


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PostPosted: Fri Apr 06, 2012 8:04 pm 
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Joined: Sun Jan 21, 2007 9:16 pm
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Location: North of the Harbour planning my next mini project
Started to buff and polish the Clubman so I can put it up for sale by the end of Easter
Also got a flat tyre in the bini, very interesting driving through the harbour tunnel and have the flat tyre alarm come on, but the car didn't really feel any different :?

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PostPosted: Fri Apr 06, 2012 9:04 pm 
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Joined: Tue Aug 17, 2004 1:21 pm
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Location: Western Queensland
Run flats are great!! I have used them before flat. and never noticed.. did 300km at 100kph +

http://www.youtube.com./watch?v=mxHwrMh76tE jump to 2.28min

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PostPosted: Fri Apr 06, 2012 9:37 pm 
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Joined: Fri Apr 29, 2005 9:46 am
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Location: Under the bonnet son!
I changed out the Distributor on the white Cooper for a new one.
As well as the new dizzy, I used GT40R (1.2 Ohm) coil. The spark now reminds me of a nail gun, the cold start up is a treat, and the otherwise hairy 998 idles sweetly at 800 rpm with rock solid timing.

She's up on blocks for the time being, I'm away far to much to take her down for a spin :( but at least I can still improve her a little..

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PostPosted: Fri Apr 06, 2012 11:11 pm 
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Mokesta wrote:
Had to explain to the wife why I came back from some alone time in the shed with sore hands and red palms.

:lol: Hilarious Mark.

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