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 Post subject: 1st gear select problem
PostPosted: Fri Apr 06, 2012 10:21 pm 
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Hi all,

I'm having problems selecting 1st gear after rebuilding the box. Now, I'm hoping this is a selector rod problem, since the selector box under the gear lever looks crooked (the bottom plate is far from parallel to the floorpan).

Any adjustments I can look at to fix this up? I re-did the clutch while I was at it, and it works better than it ever has before. All other gears select fine. The primary gear and idler gear gaps are fine, they were measured and are within spec. The synchros are all good, the selector forks are quite good, I can't think what I could have done wrong to cause this. When it does go into 1st, it goes in really easy, but it seems to go in easy or not at all. Any suggestions? I don't want to have to take the engine out again!

And another thing, what is the external spring on the clutch needed for? It works fine without!


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PostPosted: Fri Apr 06, 2012 10:33 pm 
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Sorry can't help you with the 1st gear select problem.
But it happens with some remote boxes too. Try selecting 2nd, then 1st...

re the clutch arm return spring, yes it works without it. Your clutch then becomes self-adjusting, like 90% of modern cars, including Rover Minis.
The release bearing may not last quite as long, I will let you know if/when mine has had it. 8) :lol:
The spring and the arm stop screw are provided to allow adjustment of the clutch pedal's free play. if you do remove the spring, screw the stop screw into the cover a few turns.

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PostPosted: Sat Apr 07, 2012 5:40 am 
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Irish Yobbo wrote:
Hi all,

I'm having problems selecting 1st gear after rebuilding the box.

The synchros are all good, the selector forks are quite good, I can't think what I could have done wrong to cause this. When it does go into 1st, it goes in really easy, but it seems to go in easy or not at all. Any suggestions? I don't want to have to take the engine out again!



A common reason / cause for this is a worn sychro hub and / or the 3 'ears' on the baulk ring being worn or bashed about.

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PostPosted: Sat Apr 07, 2012 9:01 am 
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I think there was a chip on one of the teeth on the 1st/2nd synchro hub, but I doubt that would do it. The springs and balls were all renewed.

The synchros were all 2nd hand, but they all had a good gap. I probably put the smallest gap onto 1st gear because you usually don't use the syncho on 1st, but the smallest gap was about 30 thou by memory. I don't remember any of the synchro gears looking out of place.

This is really frustrating. Everything works except for the 1st gear thing.


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PostPosted: Sat Apr 07, 2012 12:20 pm 
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Hi,
Can you clarify a few things for us please?
It will be much easier to halp you if I know...
1. What type of gear box do you have, Remote? Rod?
2. Is this poroblem when the car is standing still with motor Not running?
Standing still with motor Running? or
While Driving?

Dave

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PostPosted: Sat Apr 07, 2012 3:21 pm 
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Irish Yobbo wrote:
Hi all,

I'm having problems selecting 1st gear after rebuilding the box. Now, I'm hoping this is a selector rod problem, since the selector box under the gear lever looks crooked (the bottom plate is far from parallel to the floorpan).



I think this is a clue to your problem. Check that the selector rod and steady bar are aligned correctly and the selector box mounted properly. Not too certain where you have gone wrong on this as normally these are pretty straightforward to reassemble.

BTW, you have used the correct roll-pin for the rod coupling, haven't you? I have known some geniuses to use split pins instead and these for some reason just don't cut the mustard :roll:

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Apr 09, 2012 8:38 am 
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To clarify from sitnlo62's questions:
- Rod change box
- Hard to change when running or not, but much easier when the engine isn't running.

I'm using the proper roll pin, I'll have a play with the selector mounting bracket when I get the chance. It might just be bent or something.


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