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PostPosted: Fri Apr 06, 2012 3:04 pm 
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Nutted out the camber - gone from +2.8 ish to -0.5 now trying to work out how to adjust toe. What nuts/bolts need to be loosened? Do you 'jump' the splines on the two flat plates behind the pivot bolt?

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PostPosted: Fri Apr 06, 2012 4:16 pm 
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Yes.
Don't rely on both sides having equal toe with adjusters equal, often/usually they are not.
Not the fault of the adjusters... :lol:

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PostPosted: Fri Apr 06, 2012 4:57 pm 
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On mine, the splines go horizontal, so 'jumping' the splines will adjust the camber. Moving the pivot forwards and backwards will adjust toe surely?


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PostPosted: Fri Apr 06, 2012 6:27 pm 
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drmini in aust wrote:
Yes.
Don't rely on both sides having equal toe with adjusters equal, often/usually they are not.
Not the fault of the adjusters... :lol:


Learnt that already :shock:

Any tips on getting the pivot bolt to move? I have about 3mm toe out on both sides so I have to get it moved some how

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PostPosted: Fri Apr 06, 2012 7:08 pm 
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Wombat wrote:
drmini in aust wrote:
Yes.
Don't rely on both sides having equal toe with adjusters equal, often/usually they are not.
Not the fault of the adjusters... :lol:


Learnt that already :shock:

Any tips on getting the pivot bolt to move? I have about 3mm toe out on both sides so I have to get it moved some how

According to Minispares there is an eccentric washer...
http://www.minispares.com/Product.aspx? ... 392&title=

?? But I can't see it in the pics there.
Maybe it's a typo, I dunno... the only set I've fitted years ago was a Minisport kit.
Mine are fixed- I modded the original brackets instead.

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PostPosted: Fri Apr 06, 2012 9:39 pm 
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I found with my MS rear brackets I only have so much toe adjustment before the bracket fouls. The guy who laser aligned it at Stuckey's had to use a lever bar to get it close, and even then it wouldn't go quite enough to be perfect.

Bent trailing arms.. that'll do it...

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PostPosted: Fri Apr 06, 2012 9:46 pm 
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On my Mini, the trailing arm appeared to be straight, I think the problem was in the subby as the car has evidence of a rear corner shunt. I had toe-out on that side.
So I milled the hole in the LH bracket forwards about 3mm (from memory) then welded and filed the back of the hole, so I could fit shims behind the bracket for adjustment.
You may need to do similar...

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PostPosted: Sun Apr 08, 2012 6:16 am 
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On on the subject of bent trailing arms, the engineer who needs to sign off my adjustable suspension isn't happy that one adjuster is wound out more than the other (at the rear), even though that's how I have set it up so the car is level. (Prior to installing the kit, it leaned to the left a little).

How do I ascertain if it's the trailing arm or subbie that's bent? I have spare trailing arms which I could compare them to I guess, but I'm also thinking the bend in the arm (if they are indeed bent), might be quite slight and hard to observe.


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PostPosted: Sun Apr 08, 2012 9:15 am 
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You could run a tape measure over your subby

Corner to corner, diagonally through the center of the subframe.

If the measurements are the same, it's square.

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PostPosted: Sun Apr 08, 2012 11:21 am 
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When I had the rear stubby out I measured it up and it was all square. However the left arm brings the wheel to almost touching the shocker - if I can't adjust it out then I'll be looking for a new arm.

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PostPosted: Mon Apr 09, 2012 11:59 am 
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are these the ones?

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if you want to move the pivot bolt over, you'd need to file its mounting hole where the nuts go through, and you might need some shims like in here to get it out far enough to start fine adjustments

http://www.ausmini.com/forums/viewtopic ... 999#175999


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PostPosted: Mon Apr 09, 2012 1:06 pm 
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They are the ones Simon - thanks for the tip and link

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PostPosted: Mon Apr 09, 2012 2:22 pm 
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Wombat wrote:
They are the ones Simon - thanks for the tip and link

Those ones are just camber, not these [camber + toe] ones like I posted the link to before.

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Last edited by drmini in aust on Mon Apr 09, 2012 3:02 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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PostPosted: Mon Apr 09, 2012 2:49 pm 
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drmini in aust wrote:
Wombat wrote:
They are the ones Simon - thanks for the tip and link

Those ones are just camber, not [camber + toe] like I posted the link to before.


Duh - you're Doc - yours are the ones

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PostPosted: Mon Apr 09, 2012 3:45 pm 
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Wombat wrote:
drmini in aust wrote:
Wombat wrote:
They are the ones Simon - thanks for the tip and link

Those ones are just camber, not [camber + toe] like I posted the link to before.


Duh - you're Doc - yours are the ones


ah - that makes more sense - I did post the picture of the wrong one

the shims still apply - if there isn't enough adjustment in the vertical ribs on the bracket then you need to adjust

I have the minisport rear adjustables, and I have shims as well. I put them in and adjusted as well as I could, then took it to the wheel alignment - I wanted a smidge of toe in, I had it pretty close: -0.2 on one side, and +0.2 on the other, we only moved one side to get -0.2 on both sides


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