Hi all,

I rebuilt my rod change box to fix a dodgy bearing, and 2nd gear still crunches terribly, if anything worse than before. It's fine going from 1st to 2nd but 3rd to 2nd isn't possible without grinding.

I figured it was the synchromeshes, but the baulk ring gap on 2nd gear was still about 30thou - still pretty good. I put the best ring I could find on 2nd (about 42thou). The selector hub springs were renewed, and the forks were within the specs for wear (but on the larger side).

What else can cause it? I can only think that the 1st/2nd selector fork might only be worn on the 2nd gear side, which is why it's still within spec, but I'm only guessing. The mounts and steadies are all new, as far as I know everything should be good.

Kinda annoyed, I'll need to take it all out again to fix it, it seems.

Some of the synchro hub springs sold now are weaker than your originals.
I like fitting the old 3 synchro ones, as they are stronger.
Or, you can now get stronger ones from Minisport in Adelaide.
Could also be a problem with wear in the outer synchro sleeve...

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

I tested the new springs against the old ones, they had more push per mm, and were slightly longer than the old ones (I suppose the old ones were suppressed over time). When I say it crunches, I mean I cannot get into 2nd from 3rd without grinding at all, unless I'm at near standstill. 1st to 2nd is great.

Outer synchro sleeve - tell me more...

well,,, (by the sounds of it) either way... the box has to come out, & apart again to see what`s happened

so,,, hop to it... don`t muck around,,,, get on the job now or it will eat you up

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No offence intended here but--> anyone writing a book about minis 30 years ago may not have experienced such worn or stuffed-with components as we are finding these days.

You should put your heart & soul into everything you do.

It could be the synchro hub as the Doc has hinted at and / or the 3 ears on the baulk ring. Either way...........



Or, what oil are you using? I doubt that would be it, considering how sever it is, but need to ask.

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I would suggest the hub has been fitted the wrong way around when assembling the synchronizer assembly. Easy to do if you are not aware that the hub bosses on eather side are slightley different lengths, with the result being no synchro on second.

Box out or double de clutch.

I agree, I did that once years ago, but caught it before final assembly.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.