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 Post subject: What to do...
PostPosted: Thu Apr 19, 2012 5:44 pm 
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Location: TNQ
I'm not trying to get my mini to concourse condition but I would like the minimum amount of 'orange peel' under paint etc. So, the area around the brake and clutch cylinders appears to be a common place to rust, presumably from acidic fluid cutting through paintwork and protection. What to do with this area?

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Even with my exceptional welding skills and accuracy with a Dremel :shock: I'm torn. Cut it out and just weld a flat piece in it's place or try and recreate the curves and weld that piece in. (Or does anyone have a good bit they can cut out of the pride and joy?)

Ideas?


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PostPosted: Thu Apr 19, 2012 6:07 pm 
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Joined: Fri Jan 28, 2011 2:09 pm
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Location: Doncaster, Vic
I might have the bit in my spare shell. If you can get your hands on an oxy i would braze it up. I'll be able to get back to you when i get back from my soccer training to if i have the bit

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Apr 19, 2012 10:05 pm 
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Location: Wodonga - Vic/NSW border
yep, cut it out of another car & weld it in.. bugger of a spot though


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Apr 19, 2012 10:31 pm 
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The one on my other shell has light surface rust, i'll hit it with a wirewheel and see how bad it is

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Apr 19, 2012 10:32 pm 
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Location: Yandina,Sunshine Coast,QLD
I might have a section on an old shell aswell. If you want I can cut it out and mail it to you. Just PM me if your keen.

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PostPosted: Fri Apr 20, 2012 6:50 pm 
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you may be able to mig up the individual holes if you get some one to hold a piece of copper behind the holes when you start mig

Then a fine finish bondy on top

I use a piece welded to a long bar as it gets very hot Leather gloves mandatory

Its a difficult place to repair good luck


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Apr 20, 2012 7:10 pm 
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Bog?? :shock:

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Apr 20, 2012 7:24 pm 
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simon k wrote:
yep, cut it out of another car & weld it in.. bugger of a spot though

I agree.
Do it once do it right. Bog won't last... and if you try to MIG all those holes and pits up they'll just get bigger. And the panel will distort to buggery.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Apr 20, 2012 7:30 pm 
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ok Bog was a bad choice of words

Good quality fine Auto finisher (not from supacheap)


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Apr 20, 2012 7:35 pm 
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Location: North of the Harbour planning my next mini project
Still bog and it won't last
Especially in that area

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Apr 20, 2012 7:37 pm 
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Thanks for the replies and PMs all. Plan A is to buy a cut out piece and Plan B is to make it a good fit. Plan C is to make my own section.

I've seen the copper trick and recently cut up a candle jar for that very purpose. A panel beater friend said hit the holes with MIG but I reckon the metal is too thin.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Apr 20, 2012 7:48 pm 
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Give the mig a go what have you got to loose

(get your panel beater mate to do it)

The grind it back, Roll prime high build 2K primer then skim fill with Auto filler, then 2K top coat

It is what a body shop would do.

The key problem fixing that area is you cannot easily hammer the panels after you weld due to its compound angles

Just had mine repaired in that area

Also make sure you clean the rust off the back of the panel before you start any repair

also drill the little pin holes out until you get clean metal before you start


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Apr 20, 2012 7:54 pm 
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kiwiinwgtn wrote:
Give the mig a go what have you got to loose

(get your panel beater mate to do it)


True but panel beater mate can't do anything for while, he's had major surgery...twice. I'll give it a go for sh!ts and giggles but my recent welding experience is...'interesting'.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Apr 20, 2012 8:29 pm 
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Location: Canberra
You could try a lead wipe.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Apr 20, 2012 8:34 pm 
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Location: near Baulkham Hills, NSW
I'd say it's too dirty for lead wipe.
Worth trying to braze it with oxy though (my front beaver panel was worse, haha), but I'd use nickel bronze rod as it's less runny than manganese bronze.

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