Sorry for the late reply i have been out for dinner and drinks.

The bleeders are facing up and they are on the correct side,
I tightened the drums to the point i could not turn it by hand then bled and re adjusted so its tighter.



If you have a look on the left caliper you can see one of the two nipples have been cut of so it can fit inside the 10" rim.
Do you guys think there could still be air trapped in that side of the caliper?
I would assume the reason why they put 2 bleed nipples in is so you can bleed both sides...
I have only been bleeding through the one nipple per caliper as its the only working one.
I can't put new nipples in as they will rub on the wheel.. The clearance is really minimal.

The 4 pot calipers were working on the car before, I will try and see if i can get the pistons moving tomorrow..
I managed to get the brake light to turn on but i was pumping the brakes a few times beforehand.

_________________
http://www.flickr.com/by_dan
Current: 1970 Mini K 2014 Focus ST
Past: 93 Rover, 64 850, 97 Rover, 66 Deluxe, 66 Moke
81 Austin Estate, 2006 R53MCS, 66 Deluxe, 1978 Clubbie
2014 Land Rover Defender 90

I can see 4 nipples, it is just that you can't stick a hose on two of them.
You will just have to bleed them without a hose.

There will be air trapped behind the cut off bleeders.

I bet they need the threads fixing too.

Yeah i can only bleed from 2 of the 4 nipples... The previous owner cut 2 off so they can fit under 10" wheels..

I guess i can bleed them and let the fluid go everywhere.

_________________
http://www.flickr.com/by_dan
Current: 1970 Mini K 2014 Focus ST
Past: 93 Rover, 64 850, 97 Rover, 66 Deluxe, 66 Moke
81 Austin Estate, 2006 R53MCS, 66 Deluxe, 1978 Clubbie
2014 Land Rover Defender 90

Yea just let the fluid go everywhere, then asap spray/pour some water over it to minimize the brake fluid eating the paint.

There is 2 bleeders on each calliper for a reason.
They are still bleeders even with the top cut off.
They still have air trapped behind them.
Lopping the top off them doesn't make the air go away by itself.
You are going to spill brake fluid on your fancy paint.
The choice is brakes or no brakes it is your call.

Did the brake place fix the threads in these bleeders too?
Or are they going to strip as soon as you touch them?

Dont say that
I don't want to un bolt them and bring them back..
Worst case i will and see if they sell stumpy brake bleed nipples.

_________________
http://www.flickr.com/by_dan
Current: 1970 Mini K 2014 Focus ST
Past: 93 Rover, 64 850, 97 Rover, 66 Deluxe, 66 Moke
81 Austin Estate, 2006 R53MCS, 66 Deluxe, 1978 Clubbie
2014 Land Rover Defender 90

They only fixed 2 of the 4.
As i was told by someone i can bleed brakes using 2 of the 4 bleeders.
I hope they dont strip.. We have to wait and see i guess :/ I will let you guys know how it goes tomorrow..

_________________
http://www.flickr.com/by_dan
Current: 1970 Mini K 2014 Focus ST
Past: 93 Rover, 64 850, 97 Rover, 66 Deluxe, 66 Moke
81 Austin Estate, 2006 R53MCS, 66 Deluxe, 1978 Clubbie
2014 Land Rover Defender 90

They have bleeders. You don't need new ones. It is not mandatory to fit a hose on them to bleed them. It just makes things cleaner.

You can try to get a thin plastic tube that will fit tightly up the guts of the bleeder.

If the bleeders are stuck this it what I would do.
Coat the bleeder in a good penetrating oil. (No not WD40, I said penetrating oil)
Give them a tap with a hammer. Just one tap straight down on top of the bleeder to drive it inwards a touch to unload the thread. The shockwave will unlock the thread and let the oil in.
With a tight fitting spanner try to tighten them a tiny bit.
Then try to undo a little.

Repeat till undone.

That wasn't exactly the smartest idea...

Moving on, yes there is most probably still some air in the system. A method I use on mountain bike hydraulic brakes is a "pressure bleed". Leaving the lines connected and the MC cap on (you want to keep the rest of the system closed), demount the brake calipers so you can move them into a position where the bleed nipple is the highest point on the caliper. Attach a 1/2-full syringe (you'll need a decent-sized one) with a short length of PVC hose to the bleed nipple, making sure the hose is full of brake fluid, then open it. Most of the air in the caliper should be just inside the nipple waiting to escape as soon as you open it. Let any bubbles that easily escape travel up the hose & into the syringe, then press down on the plunger to force fluid into the caliper. This will force any air still in there to rise to the highest point - the bleed nipple - so after a few seconds, relax the pressure & let any accumulated air exit the nipple. You may need to apply light suction with the syringe to coax the air out. If there's a lot of air in there, you'll need to repeat the pressure/suction cycle a few times. When you get no more air out of the caliper, move onto the other side & repeat the process.

Once you've got the calipers bled it's a good idea to give the full system another go, just to make sure there's nothing left further up the lines. (On a bike, I fully pressure bleed the system, using th fluid injected in the caliper to push the air up to the MC, where the excess is syphoned off until I'm happy no more air is coming up.)

_________________
You're only supposed to blow the BLUDDY DOORS OFF!!

Danny, now I know you'll only ever learn by doing things yourself, but please don't bugger around with your brakes anymore.

Take it to someone who knows what they're doing.

+1

Looking at you calipers I notice that the working bleed nipple is on the same side as the brake hose
With my calipers, both MInisport and standard Cooper S they bled nipple is on the opposite side to the brake hose, therefore the main one to bleed on your car is the broken one
I am guessing my theory is sad but true
So some how you need to open the broken nipple and let the air out. If you just force out the fluid and then after closing the nipple quickly wash with water then your paint should be Ok

_________________
1969 Cooper "S"
1967 Mini Deluxe
1973 Clubman Van (the fleet spare)
1978 ex 1275 LS ("Wizard" Eaton Supercharged)
2015 HSV GenF GTS(occasional drive & tow car)
2019 MINI F55 Cooper S

Why does everyone keep calling it broken?

It looks like a perfectly functioning bleed nipple. Whether it's stripped or not is unknown.

The tip is just there to squeeze some hose over, the seat mechanism is inside.

_________________
You're so square
Baby I don't care

+1.

Maybe we can call it "the cut off" bleed nipple?

_________________
1969 Cooper "S"
1967 Mini Deluxe
1973 Clubman Van (the fleet spare)
1978 ex 1275 LS ("Wizard" Eaton Supercharged)
2015 HSV GenF GTS(occasional drive & tow car)
2019 MINI F55 Cooper S