Looked at mine. Thought it looked dirty. Took it for a drive.

Then forgot to put the fuel cap back on at the petrol station..

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Rookie error!

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You're so square
Baby I don't care

Welded up the broken frame on my drivers seat, and re tensioned the webbing while I had the seat apart. Is so much better to sit in now.

Was the first time I have welded anything, and it was with an Ark welder that is older then me. Managed to blow a big hole to start off with, then patched it and got it all nice and solid.

PS Ark is not a typo I actually think it may have been used to weld up the frame work on Noah's Ark

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My '78 Leyland Mini on flickr

Rebuilt remote gear change casing and gear stick. Nice and snappy changing now, well snappy as it's going to get from a 1968 mini

Out of the 3 remote change assemblies I had all three had water damage/rust. It appears they all get water in them, reducing lubrication, advancing wear and tear. I was thinking a small hole drilled underneath the aluminium casing would let any water drain out. Anybody tried this before?

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1968 Morris Mini Deluxe - members gallery
1970 Morris Cooper S - members gallery
Mini's I grew up with
Slot car couch

Should be no water getting in there, if you have the 1/2 moon seal at the front (or fill the gap with silastic like I do).
A grease nipple is often fitted to the anti rattle plunger plug (on the side) and I have seen one that had another underneath to lube the front `bearing' (that isn't) where the shaft runs through the housing boss.

BTW I have successfully reclaimed worn balls on the bellcrank, and the shift shaft they runs through the diff housing. I built them up with 2.5mm Toolcraft electrode then linished them round again.
Handy coz both these items are NLA now.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

Thanks Kevin,

I have the rubber seals, but I guess people assembling without them over the years causes these sort of problems, I will use some sealer as well as you suggest.

The extra greasing points sound like an excellent idea. I think I will pull long shaft out and drill and tap some from the side for both front and back bush areas. (edit; just realised they may not be able to come directly from the side. I will have to have a look)

I selected the best combinations from the parts I have but maybe some time in the future I may also need to do as you have by welding and refacing them to suitable size. Seems the bush holes in the remote casing and hole in box casing are the ones now most responsible for the remaining slop in the gear stick, boring and pressing bronze bush in is probably next best solution but that’s probably getting a little pedantic I guess.

Cheers

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1968 Morris Mini Deluxe - members gallery
1970 Morris Cooper S - members gallery
Mini's I grew up with
Slot car couch

Put a new speedo cable in but didn't test drive it as the wife is sick and I had to mind the kids. I hope this works. I tested the speedo (again) and it is perfect.

Washed, vacuumed and photographed the MX5 after collecting it from the mechanic. It sailed through its roadworthy. I hope it sells quickly.

M

I always replace the 2 bronze bushes in the diff housing.
You can buy them from the usual suspects but I get a 1/2" bush 2" long from the local bearing shop and cut it in half. Price is about 1/2, too.

To get the old bushes out I screw a 9/16" UNF tap into it, then use a drift + BFH to knock the tap plus bush out. Rinse and repeat for the 2nd one.
A 14mm spark plug tap will work for this too.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

Fixed my front blinkers/ parkers, had the wires round the wrong way put my dash back together and then started it up for the first time Love the sound of RE13 Dellorto and RC40! Just a few things left now to do before heading to the blue slipper.

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1962 850

Rivetted the moustache extensions on.

Went to the locksmith to get my boot lock repaired. 20 Bucks later I got three brand new keys that work for the whole car.

Fitted a battery cut-off switch in the boot for a bit of security when I park it in dodgy places.

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This is the only security you need in a dodgy place

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http://www.flickr.com/by_dan
Current: 1970 Mini K 2014 Focus ST
Past: 93 Rover, 64 850, 97 Rover, 66 Deluxe, 66 Moke
81 Austin Estate, 2006 R53MCS, 66 Deluxe, 1978 Clubbie
2014 Land Rover Defender 90

Hah! My set of locks are sitting on the back seat of the daily because I was too forgetful to actually take them to the locksmith for the same thing yesterday At the moment I have a different key for each side and none for the boot!

Ditto on the cut off switch too

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Basil - 1978 Leyland Mini, Brooklands Green, bit of a bitsa, and a park brick in the boot.

It is a very good idea to tell everyone on a forum what you have done to stop your car getting stolen.
Can you tell us your bank details as well?

There is a few cases where people on this forum have had stuff stolen and the likely suspects are people that have read the forum.

Yeah Ive already thought of that. The battery cut-off was just a simple deterrent for the average car thief. To be honest if a person knew their way around a mini and wanted to steal it they would. Theres no real way of stopping this without having unsightly locks and the sort.

But thats where GPS trackers come in

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I GOT MY SPEEDO WORKING!

A new cable thanks to JC and I have a speedo!!

I also found the major oil leak. It is the take off for the oil pressure guage. Nice and easy to reach. Made the mistake of trying to tighten it while the car was idling. Big zap off one of the leads when the spanner touched it. I fell backwards!

Jacked it up and inspected the rear brakes. Everything brand new and perfect!!

I think I am just a degrease away from a roadworthy and registration. Then it is off for the tune it so badly needs.

M