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PostPosted: Sun Aug 12, 2012 8:20 pm 
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TBOT70 wrote:
3 full turns of mixture nut behind left carb (ie had to be 3 times richer, and idle higher)


I don't like the sound of that, I'd be investigating that one further. If they're 3 turns different, that equates to a LOT of fuel

You did say you have a colourtune - do the flame colours look the same on cylinders 2 & 3 through the rev range?

Take the pistons/dashpots off and measure the jet height on both. Get your vernier measurers and use the bit that pokes out of the bottom to measure from the bridge down to the jet. They should be the same... Maybe one carb has a shorter adjusting nut, slightly different jet, spacer washer in it, or something...

Also have a look at the needles and make sure their shoulders are both flush with the base of the piston

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PostPosted: Sun Aug 12, 2012 8:59 pm 
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ok simon, i will check those tomorrow, cheers for the advice


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PostPosted: Wed Aug 22, 2012 2:09 pm 
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Tobermary wrote:
Don’t know if this going to help……but worth a look to help get an idea.
Don’t know if it’s been posted before…….

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ASeMfXfj ... _embedded#!

Cheers neil


That video was ridiculously easy to follow and understand. A really great twin SU video and really helped me understand all the adjustments better.

However, what do we do if we don't have the little air flow tested that he uses? Any alternatives or do I need to buy one? If so how much they cost?


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PostPosted: Wed Aug 22, 2012 2:13 pm 
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You get a bit of rubber tube (washer hose) and stick one end in yer ear.. the other in the carby mouth.
:wink: Worked for me for 50 years....

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R. :mrgreen:


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PostPosted: Wed Aug 22, 2012 2:16 pm 
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oh ok, so your just listening then for the air flow noise to see if similar?


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PostPosted: Wed Aug 22, 2012 2:26 pm 
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Yes. It's pretty accurate, you will hear when it's equal each side.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R. :mrgreen:


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PostPosted: Wed Aug 22, 2012 3:09 pm 
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drmini in aust wrote:
Yes. It's pretty accurate, you will hear when it's equal each side.


yep done and understand now :-)

what is standard revs on idle? mine is idling around 2000, shouldnt it be down around 800?

i have read the manual now, so just wondering where it should sit.


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PostPosted: Wed Aug 22, 2012 3:23 pm 
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Konzo wrote:
drmini in aust wrote:
Yes. It's pretty accurate, you will hear when it's equal each side.


yep done and understand now :-)

what is standard revs on idle? mine is idling around 2000, shouldnt it be down around 800?


Depends on the cam.
Stock cams idle OK down to 650-750, most sporty cams around 900-1000, mine idles at 1300 (but it's nearly a race cam, with 1.5 rockers and a 45 Dellorto).
Don't try and idle it too slow, all that does is starve the cam and lifters of oil.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R. :mrgreen:


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PostPosted: Wed Aug 22, 2012 3:53 pm 
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Ok thanks. It's a Kent cam and I would assume its a mid range type so I'll set it accordingly.


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