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 Post subject: Wiring auxiliary lights
PostPosted: Wed Sep 05, 2012 9:21 pm 
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At the moment I have just piggy backed about 7 spades off the light switch...surely there is a much more efficient and safer way to do this?
When I switch the lights on the revs drop a bit also, new alternator and new tightened belt, so that's no issue...
Can I wire up some kind of relay behind the dash?


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PostPosted: Wed Sep 05, 2012 9:48 pm 
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sam_1100 wrote:
At the moment I have just piggy backed about 7 spades off the light switch...surely there is a much more efficient and safer way to do this?
When I switch the lights on the revs drop a bit also, new alternator and new tightened belt, so that's no issue...
Can I wire up some kind of relay behind the dash?


Yeah you're probably going to want some relays for those auxillary lights as your switches are probably rated for a low amperage but extra lights will bump that up quite a bit and you'll either end up with fire or smoke. :lol:

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Sep 05, 2012 10:02 pm 
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Yeah used them for the first time tonight..... Smelt smoke :shock:
You just buy a relay and piggy back that off the switch?


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PostPosted: Wed Sep 05, 2012 10:08 pm 
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I would go buy some headlamp relays, before you let the Lucas smoke out of the switch.
Fitting relays will take 95% of the load off both the headlight and dip switches.
For headlights, I like a New Era one (are made in Japan)- they come with 2x 30A blade fuses plugged in (Mini headlights are unfused as standard).
Very easy to wire up (schematic is on the box).

For the driving lights I would use a Bosch, Hella or Narva lamp relay. Narva are cheapest but not the best.

[edit] Headlamp relay is fitted under the bonnet, you cut into the blue/white and blue/red wires going to the lamps. Wiring on the switch stays stock, but now it's just switching the relays (a few mA load).

You can then piggy back the other relay off the switch, it will come with wiring details.

[edit] a pic & price-
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/TWIN-HEADLIG ... 0758304817

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Last edited by drmini in aust on Wed Sep 05, 2012 10:13 pm, edited 2 times in total.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Sep 05, 2012 10:08 pm 
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Yep, use relays.
Easiest to put them on the engine bay, get power from the hot terminal of the solenoid, always use a fuse, and find the original light wire - park, low or high beam - and jump from that for a trigger for the relay.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Sep 05, 2012 10:14 pm 
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Ahhhh electronics....
So I don't simply "plug" a relay into the light switch and chuck a relay behind the dash...?
Ive got 1 spare connector on my fuse box if that helps at all?


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Sep 05, 2012 10:17 pm 
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sam_1100 wrote:
Ahhhh electronics....
So I don't simply "plug" a relay into the light switch and chuck a relay behind the dash...?
Ive got 1 spare connector on my fuse box if that helps at all?

Haha Minis have electrics, not electronics.. (alternator excepted) :wink:
Not that simple, you need to add wires... and connectors.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Sep 05, 2012 10:24 pm 
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Haha fair enough...
But can I piggy back a relay off the switch at the end of the day?
Very confusing :?


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Sep 05, 2012 11:01 pm 
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Or if like me, get a new wiring loom, and it has relays built into it..

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Sep 05, 2012 11:33 pm 
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Yes you could put your relay after the light switch but there is still going to be a high currant draw on the dipper switch.
Not sure what you mean by auxillary lights though.
High beam spots or fog lamps that run off the park light circuit.
Better to isolate the whole lighting circuit ( Switch and indicator stalk) from the extra load.
You wont burn out the contacts in the column and switch and will generally have less voltage drop at lights if you put the relays under the bonnet. As stated take your voltage from the live terminal of the solinoid as it is the most direct power from the battery.
( fuse this wire for safety.)
More voltage at the lights means brighter lights.
ie say good bye to dull yellow lights..

Cheers Rob

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Sep 06, 2012 12:52 am 
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Cheers rob! I'll see what I can work out...
By auxiliary I mean my 3 gauges and tacho backlighting! Hence the desire to relay behind the dash! Should have clarified this haha


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Sep 06, 2012 9:17 am 
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Ha ha.
Then if thats the case, yes a relay under or behind the dash will be fine.
Cheers Rob.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Sep 06, 2012 9:39 am 
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What kind of lights are you mounting? If they are spots, they will be high beam, fog lights low beam.

For the spot lights on my car, I used relays for the headlights (as per usual, one for high and one for low beam), then a separate one for the spot lights, and a separate fuse for each. The spot's power runs from the high beam, but it runs through another switch on the dash too. That way, I can switch them on and off, but if I switch to low beam, they turn off. That way I don't need to hit two buttons when dipping headlights.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Sep 21, 2012 7:22 pm 
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The relay should be arriving Monday...(took me a while to get around to ordering it!!)
Should I leave the original lights piggy backing each other on the switch (headlights and speedo/fuel,temp gauge) and then piggy back the relay off this and plug all the new lights (3 in total) into the relay?
Or option number twoooo; plug all the connectors into the new relay.

Thank you in advance auto electrical members.


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