depends, you can fit a wideband lambda sensor to close to the head and it will overheat, and give the matching error code.
most factory fitted wideband sensors are a bit further away from the head than narrowband ones

_________________
Rover 214 atm ....

Hey i bought the MTX-l about two weeks ago .. so simple to use ..

Only needs two wires to be pluged in ..
the bung went into the collector .. and its oh so simple ..
Now its tuning time

And it only cost me $215 delivered
Item Number 190595275685 on fleebay


Beanie

_________________
I am the son of the STIG

HOTBRICKS
http://hotbricks.org.au/

'65 NCF MINI.....
'69 MINIMATIC.... 9 year resto still on the go

Be interested to see how you go with that Beanie. Jean, the fella who is putting my megasquirt kit together advised against the innovative wideband.

_________________
But he's thriving and striving and hugging the turns.

Really did he have a reason ..

At the end of the day it was only $200 and im just using it as a rough tuning tool so i know if my injectors are too small ( which i think they are )


Beanie

_________________
I am the son of the STIG

HOTBRICKS
http://hotbricks.org.au/

'65 NCF MINI.....
'69 MINIMATIC.... 9 year resto still on the go

I bought on special from a NZ place (postage not a hassle like US)

i bought the LM1 or lc1 with a db9 gauge -so you can chart and gauge

but here is a link to MTX with foreign exchange i don't know if cheaper than OZ
http://www.nzperformance.co.nz/store/innovate-motorsports-wideband-o2/mtx-l-wideband-air-/-fuel-ratio-gauge-kit/prod_722.html

Darryl

eh?

They say if it's going in the collector, don't put it in the bottom, as water and condensed acids from combustion will bugger up the sensor.
Looking on the business end of the collector/Y-piece the spud fitting should be welded on at between 10 and 2 o'clock (realistically between 9 and 3 I reckon would be fine).

Initially mine will have the sensor on a zorst tube (made like the Innovate one) I can clamp inside the tailpipe then go for a drive, as I have a few cars to try it on.
Same clamp setup as the dyno guys do.

_________________
DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

ooooo gotcha...you were referring to how far around the pipe. I was thinking how far up or down and that just didn't make sense

Back TTT- anybody besides beanie running one yet?

If they work OK I'm gonna buy one real soon.

_________________
DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

I don't have the MTX - L but the LC1 and a guage (DB) - in terms of usefuleness and readability i think they are good - (but not as good as a chart)

They take about 7 seconds to warm up and then analyse/update display maybe every 3 seconds or so - it does bounce a bit but it is not so jittery that you can't get a fix.

As i said i went for an LED looking thing with large numerals/ not a dial and needle - so it looks more boy racer (which i am not) - but bigger numbers to see the difference say between 13.5 and 13.8 - from my research most use a 'standard bosch' sensor and in the short time i have had mine i am very happy with it.

I used it to retune after changing needles in twin SU - and it was a good second opinion to finding "too rich'' or too lean at idle using the old slight lift method and let me get a read at WOT etc. Overall good stuff

FNQ

When this thread started i looked into the innovate hand controller package. It sounds great but i was a little put off by a lot of negative reviews when i searched on google.

I don't know if they were just a collection of people that shouldn't be playing with the technology in the first place, or if the reviews were actually indicative of the products quality, but they seemed to outweigh the positive input.

So it would be good to hear from some ausmini peeps as i trust your word far more then a few google searches.

I got one of these kits for my car http://wbo2.com/2j/default.htm
Not sure if it is the same as you guys are talking about?
But it works fine and I fitted the sensor in the Y piece at the bottom of the extractors
It was reading the same as the stuck in the exhaust version when I had the car dyno tuned. Seems instantaneous with no delay

_________________
1969 Cooper "S"
1967 Mini Deluxe
1973 Clubman Van (the fleet spare)
1978 ex 1275 LS ("Wizard" Eaton Supercharged)
2015 HSV GenF GTS(occasional drive & tow car)
2019 MINI F55 Cooper S

Michael,
Looks like pretty much same sensor & similar results to the MTX-L, but I can get that from USA for under $200 delivered.
I'll go google what all the naysayers said first.

_________________
DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

OK I read lots of stuff on the MTX, for and against and now I've bitten the bullet.
Bought it local in case I need warranty.

Will post how it goes.

_________________
DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

cool

Getting the hand controller or the gauge?