The clubman im working on at the moment is doing my head in, when i turn the key to start the solenoid powers up, as soon as i crank it over the power goes away, flick the key back and the powers back, i've changed the solenoid but it still does the same, the motor & ignition switch are out of another car but worked perfectly before this.

Any suggestions to what it could be?


Doogie

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I won Hay once, here's the pic to prove it..


Hay, it's not about the car, it's not about the venue, it's about the people that come here. Peter Dwyer, Mayor of Hay NSW.

Swapped the starter motor?

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Earthing strap from engine to body?

Check there is no paint on the clutch housing where the stater motor bolts in.

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Dave K.
1979 Moke Californian + 1981 'Coke' Moke

If it's cranking over but not firing, I had that problem last year.
ignition switch mate.
it's dropping power to the coil during cranking.

To prove it, hotwire the coil then turn the key.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

I had this same problem when i put megajolt on my car. I powered it all from the fuse box, which turns out would lose power when the key was turned to cranking. So i hot wired it and it worked fine.

It was really weird though, because how was it starting before? The wiring on the car is a mess so i guess the coil was wired up some funny way, but i now have a new switch to put in as the old one was always dicky.

What happens is when the ign switch contacts get worn, the white output wire to the switched fuse loses power when you turn key to crank.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

either a stuffed battery or a crook connection

Battery is fine, cranks over easily, earth strap has a good earth, but the weird thing is that the steering coloum/ignition came out of a driving running car, i'll put another in tomorrow and see if that cures the problem.


Doogie

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I won Hay once, here's the pic to prove it..


Hay, it's not about the car, it's not about the venue, it's about the people that come here. Peter Dwyer, Mayor of Hay NSW.

I'm with Doc , i would try another ignition switch , i have seen this happen twice now ,
ie; engine would continue to wind over without firing whilst holding key in the start position , but as soon as you release the key , engine would fire up .

As I said before, to test you can hotwire the coil, or else put a meter on the coil's + terminal whilst cranking and see whatcha got. My bet is 0V..

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

Put another ignition in it, still the same problem, ignition side of the fuse box loses power when the starter is cranking, i think a match might fix the problem!!!

Doogie

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I won Hay once, here's the pic to prove it..


Hay, it's not about the car, it's not about the venue, it's about the people that come here. Peter Dwyer, Mayor of Hay NSW.

The prince of darkness makes us all think that from time to time!

For all I know, it could be a dodgy flux capacitor? Try wacking 2.21 gigawatts into it.....it works on tv!

Good luck!