hi guys..

I have an A+ 1275 that has been fitted with the old hardy spicer type inner joints seems to have an odd leak...

Seems to be leaking out of the centre of the diff output.... is that possible?? I can see there is a bolt and locking pin in the assembly.. is there a seal in there>?

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New from the UK and wanting a NICE little British car!

Common problem.
There is a rubber seal in there (literally a thick rubber washer, like the 2 in top of the rocker cover) but the oil rots the rubber and then they leak.
Also the ones some places supply now are too thick and tear up when the bolt is tightened.
I made my last ones out of lurethane, and applied some silastic as well.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

is this a simple case of undo the uni, remove the split pin,undo the nut and replace seal/grommet thing....??

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New from the UK and wanting a NICE little British car!

If there is a split pin and nut they are NOT Cooper S `Hardy Spicer' output shafts, but aftermarket drive flanges fitted to early (rubber uni) output shafts.
Hardy Spicers have a bolt and washer.

Early ones can leak, there's no seal in there, I put silastic on the splines before fitting the nut.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

ok, took apart said uni joint and removed the split pin to find the nut just tight. Removed and put silastic on.... tighten and found that tight is about 3mm too far round so had to back of 1/8th of a turn too insert pin...

Did that last night.... STILL LEAKING..

Is there a shim? Might change the external seal next... that require removing the side cover?

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New from the UK and wanting a NICE little British car!

Don't remove the side cover unless the bush in it is stuffed (tug the drive flange up and down to see).
You can change the seals in the car but drain the oil first.
If you do take it off, note the shims behind the LH one and put back the same, but BEWARE the gaskets they sell now are too damned thick (~.015") and thus you need extra shims. I put a .010" one behind the RH cover for a start...

It is bloody hard to shim it right when it's in the car; I'd change the seals if needed and leave the side cover bushes until the motor is out.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

Replacing the side cover oil seal does not require removing the side cover. And it sounds like your uni joints are the rubber uni type ones. They use the same seal as pot joints, but cooper S hardy spicer joints use a different seal.

The diff seals commonly leak, especially when the diff is worn out and the side cover bush, allowing the yoke to flop about.

As for the nut, once you torque it up, you should do it up tighter to get the split pin in. But if it is so far out that it would be stupid to do it up that much, then try a different thickness washer behind the nut.