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 Post subject: Painting alloy wheels
PostPosted: Mon Nov 12, 2012 12:28 pm 
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The wheels I am doing may not be for a Mini, but this should apply to all wheels anyway.
My particular rim in question is much like this picture:
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The polished faces are at a right angle to the inserts ( black )

The rims are completely stripped of all paint and the inserts are already roughed up.Basically they are primer ready, Im just in the process of polishing the faces and lip.

After that I will mask them off and paint them.

My question is can I etch prime the inserts and top coat them quickly all in one go? This would save me alot of time in masking off again. The thinners in the topcoat should eat into the primer if its still fresh right? My main concern is longevity of the paint. I don't want it to chip off.
The paint is rattle can Septone "super etch primer" and "automotive 3M acrylic black" paint /SCA general purpose thinners


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PostPosted: Mon Nov 12, 2012 12:37 pm 
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Why can't you prime it and let it completely dry before top coating? Shouldn't need to mask it twice.
:?


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PostPosted: Mon Nov 12, 2012 12:52 pm 
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Harley wrote:
Why can't you prime it and let it completely dry before top coating? Shouldn't need to mask it twice.
:?


Yeah thats what my plan is. But I mean if you leave it for a week youre meant to sand primer again right? And wet sanding would break apart the masking. But im saying if i left the primer for like 10 minutes, would I have to sand that??


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PostPosted: Mon Nov 12, 2012 12:58 pm 
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The directions on the can will tell you what you can and cant do. If you deviate from that the whole lot may not work. Painting over a fresh / tacky surface might be a problem as the primer won't dry properly, then the top coat goes gooey and doesn't stick - I've seen it before. If you're trying to avoid masking (which I suggest you rethink because though its time consuming, its cheaper than repainting) then don't wet sand the primer. Hit it with a scotchbrite pad or something instead.


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PostPosted: Mon Nov 12, 2012 1:15 pm 
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If you let the etch primer dry completely before hitting it with the top coat, you'll be fine. I did exactly this with a couple of Contessa's I picked up a year or two ago, and they still look as good as the day I painted them.

IIRC I only waited 15 mins or so between (light) etch coats, and then hit them with top coats after 24h. No need to remove the mask.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Nov 12, 2012 1:41 pm 
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Too easy, thanks for that. I think I will do light spray into the inserts from the back side of the rim, then 2 light sprays onto the front. 10 minutes in between. Wait half an hour and repeat with the black.

Need them done by Saturday for a wedding :D

P.S. Did you rattle can them or out of a gun? What mixture do you recommend if the latter.


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PostPosted: Mon Nov 12, 2012 4:03 pm 
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Mine were rattle cans. I don't know the brands off the top of my head, but both were from Bunnings.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Nov 12, 2012 7:08 pm 
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I use wheel silver spray can on my contessas and never had a problem.
Never thought to use etc primer, I just clean the wheels thoroughly with wax and grease remover

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Nov 12, 2012 7:30 pm 
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Etch prime, just a light coat let it dry - then a couple of coats of VHT mag wheel paint. At least that what it was called 20 years ago. No need to sand because you only paint the rough cast bits. It will last pretty much for ever....

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Nov 12, 2012 11:18 pm 
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michaelb wrote:
Never thought to use etc primer, I just clean the wheels thoroughly with wax and grease remover


I only used an etch primer because they're alloy, and the charcoal metallic I found which was close to the colour of my other wheels said it didn't like going on alloy without a primer. That and the last cylinder head I painted without primer all flaked off...

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Nov 13, 2012 11:52 am 
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I masked off the faces on one rim last night. took me bloody for ever...havent painted it yet....any suggestions on when to take the masking off after paint, what knife to use to cut the excess paint off, what angle to cut, and what stage of dryness the paint has to be when cutting? Not too wet not too dry im guessing :?


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Nov 13, 2012 12:15 pm 
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Etch primer is acidic & needs to cure for at least an hour @ min 20*.

As the name implies... it etches into the metal, not sit on the surface & just dries.

Painting over still damp e/primer will see the 2 paints mix & bubble up.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Nov 13, 2012 12:34 pm 
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DA9jeff wrote:
Etch primer is acidic & needs to cure for at least an hour @ min 20*.

As the name implies... it etches into the metal, not sit on the surface & just dries.

Painting over still damp e/primer will see the 2 paints mix & bubble up.


Ah good to know, 1 hour enough? Maybe i will wait 2 just to be sure, or even overnight??


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Nov 13, 2012 12:40 pm 
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I painted a set of Hotwires. I stripped the paint off completely first. Masked off the outside rim with masking tape. Used spray can black and painted straight onto the rim. Them I got a rag with turps and wiped the paint from the flat machined surface. Did 4 or 5 coats to get a good finish. You could do the same process with etch primer and acrylic. I will upload a photo when I get a chance.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Nov 13, 2012 2:26 pm 
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Eenii Meani wrote:
I painted a set of Hotwires. I stripped the paint off completely first. Masked off the outside rim with masking tape. Used spray can black and painted straight onto the rim. Them I got a rag with turps and wiped the paint from the flat machined surface. Did 4 or 5 coats to get a good finish. You could do the same process with etch primer and acrylic. I will upload a photo when I get a chance.

that could work, but i have polished the rim already, and i dont want to be rubbing on it anymore with turps/thinners because it will stain it or dull the polished surface and i will have to polish them again.


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