wow, batteries are confusing. wont a 580 start a truck???

OK, i must know nothing about them. supercheap have one at $115 Century Car Battery - 43, 325Century Car Battery - 43, 325CCA

that should be plenty from what little I understand. Cold Cranking Amps, I live in QLD lol

ahem.

I'll get my coat.

also, what's with all the Steves' on here?

I am Steve too BTW, it's a bit freaky

325 will work but won't last as long as a big one, in a Mini.
I needed a 580 to spin the 1410 over.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

i see!

that must shift some.

A member on here is asking me whether i would sell the spare right hand fuel tank. neither of us are sure what they're worth, new ones cost $400.

can anyone shed some light, what did you pay for yours if you have one?

Reason you want a big battery is because it's in the boot, the further away the battery is from the starter motor the more power is 'lost' through the cable.

thanks Harley. so is there a better housing option that anyone's found, nearer the engine?

The issue is space and I am sure I read somewhere the battery was put in the boot to help with weight distribution.

Besides it could end up costing you more to fabricate a bracket and mounting point then forking out for a bigger battery.

Why??

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1970 Cooper S ex-Bathurst & ATCC
1964 Austin Cooper S ex-Group C race car
1967 Morris Cooper S ex-Group B
1962 Mini Speed sports sedan
1968-71 ex-Peter Manton Shell car

Greg,
Actually it was with the 1360 not the 1412 (1410 was typo).
With the bathtubbed race head, RE282 cam and 11.0:1 C/R, total advance needed is 38°. It kicks back on the 1st compression stroke (static timing is 20°BTDC) due to the Pulsar electronic dizzy. Big problem in winter. [edit] if I reduce static advance, I lose off-cam torque.
It killed about 3 starter pinions before I put an ign kill switch in, so I could then spin it up with no sparks and throw the switch.

My original point was, a 550 or 580 CCA battery might seem overkill but it'll still spin a Mini over, years after a smaller one has died. And it fits in a std Mini battery box.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

R/h tank around $300+ I wouldnt go less.

The new ones you see around are plastic, and a new steel r/h tank would be more than $400.

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Doc, I dont mean to hijack the thread but those figures are really interesting. At 11:1 the comp isnt particularly high (not so that it would affect cranking too much anyway) but the static advance and total advance are far higher than I would have thought necessary. The most I have seen anyone run, even on full race engines is 10deg initial with 9-10 in the dizzy giving a total of 28-30degrees. I can see why you had trouble cranking it, but I am curious as to the performance benefits. Was this something you worked out for yourself or has someone done testing on it. It does go against what I have learnt in the past but I am eager to learn how that is working for you.

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1970 Cooper S ex-Bathurst & ATCC
1964 Austin Cooper S ex-Group C race car
1967 Morris Cooper S ex-Group B
1962 Mini Speed sports sedan
1968-71 ex-Peter Manton Shell car

Greg,
The Mk2 S head was bathtubbed by somebody before me (maybe it was boosted), it needs the advance figures I gave to get good performance. Removal of all the `beak' in the chamber means it needs way more advance than normal.
Greig Malaure's white Nb car (now Lindsay Seibler's) needed similar advance to this one, same head shape.

BTW, it'll accelerate from 40kmh in 4th gear with a 3.6 diff and 45 Dellorto + 36 chokes, with no pinging or roughness through the whole rev range to 8K.
Dizzy plate is now 9°, advance is all in before 4000 rpm. No vac advance with this carb of course.

[edit] it was dynoed at Greig Malaure's (by me and GR) years ago to set these figures.

Fozzzie, sorry for the thread hijack, we now return to your regular programming.

[edit] Head chamber pic:

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

he could have modded the dizzy to swing more & then been able to back off the initial to compensate,,, but as he said, with the pulsar dizzy the advance needed to keep "off-cam" torque better for puttering around was such that at light throttle & around town use the advance being so high was pretty nice yeah?

(well,,, at least that`s what i expect he was doing anyways & i totally understand)

my 1510cc donk ran pulsar dizzy & similar comp ratio & similar needs for low-mid ign advance to just make it nice to putter around off-cam

however, the ocasional ping as i start was a worry,,, even tho it never produced any horrible results,,, & also (only on hot days) it could occasionally ping just as i turned it off too



ya gets that stuff on the big jobs

& besides,,, a bit more "low-down to mid" advance on a "decent" engine isn`t going to hurt anyone... makes em nice & responsive ,,, & economical too--> so long as the opperator/driver understands not to floor the thing in top gear up a steep hill with crap fuel on a hot day

but i must admit,,, mine doesn`t sound as bad as the Docs with 20deg,,, mine`s on 15

am i close Doc???

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No offence intended here but--> anyone writing a book about minis 30 years ago may not have experienced such worn or stuffed-with components as we are finding these days.

You should put your heart & soul into everything you do.

Interesting,
Thanks Doc, I have no doubt it is working for you I just need to get my head around how. That much lead on a warm engine and usually you would carry it home in boxes, especially with 11:1 on pump gas. All interesting stuff.
G.

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1970 Cooper S ex-Bathurst & ATCC
1964 Austin Cooper S ex-Group C race car
1967 Morris Cooper S ex-Group B
1962 Mini Speed sports sedan
1968-71 ex-Peter Manton Shell car