I am going to replace my standard drums with stepped drums and am wondering if I have everything I need to complete the job. Wheel bearings seem to be in good condition, but should I just replace them anyway while I have the flanges off? Here is the list, with Karcraft part numbers and quantities required.

Rear Brakes Part Number Quantity
Drums Cooper S 21A1279 2.00
Brake Shoes GBS834AF/2 1.00
Wheel Stud 2.300" 21A1278 8.00
Shoe Spring Kit GBK1834 1.00
Wheel Cylinder Rear 0.750" GWC1102/1 2.00
Screw Brake Drum - Cooper S CMZ422 4.00

Front Brakes - Drums
Drums Cooper S 21A1279 2.00
Brake Shoes GBS733AF 1.00
Wheel Stud (x8) 21A1278 8.00
Shoe Spring AAU8243 4.00
Spring - Shoe to Cylinder 27H3753 4.00
Wheel Cylinder LHF 15/16" GWC127 2.00
Wheel Cylinder RHF 15/16" GWC126 2.00
Screw Brake Drum - Cooper S CMZ422 4.00

Is there anything I have missed?

Cheers
Terry

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My '78 Leyland Mini on flickr

What are your front brake hoses like?
But all else looks Ok
You shouldn't need to remove the hubs as you can juggle the brake cylinders in and out around the hub

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1969 Cooper "S"
1967 Mini Deluxe
1973 Clubman Van (the fleet spare)
1978 ex 1275 LS ("Wizard" Eaton Supercharged)
2015 HSV GenF GTS(occasional drive & tow car)
2019 MINI F55 Cooper S

Hoses look as though they have been replaced fairly recently. Will give them a good clean and inspection while I have good access to them though, just to be sure.

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My '78 Leyland Mini on flickr

How are the ball joints? If they're getting a bit sad now would be an ideal time to tackle them.

I thought I saw somewhere you can get tapered roller bearings for drum brake hubs, if you needed bearings might as well upgrade

just some thoughts.

cheers,

Jacob

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'72 Clubman Van - 1022cc, 295 head, 731 cam - Daily Driver
'69 Morris 1100 S - Dinged by a bus, in shed under repair
'64 Morris 1100 - Early 1100, long term project

Tapered roller bearing kits (as used on disc hubs) also fit in drum hubs. But note the split spacer ring between the inner seal (against CV) and the bearing cup is wider than the ball bearing type one. This ring keeps the seal from fouling on the bearing cone. If you don't have the wider ring, just don't knock the seal in too far.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.