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PostPosted: Wed Dec 12, 2012 3:12 pm 
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Only difference is there are two mounts on the front subby to stick the bumper to.

I don't understand why some people are reluctant to say a moke is a mini
It's a mini.

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PostPosted: Wed Dec 12, 2012 3:59 pm 
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adamstuart wrote:
Only difference is there are two mounts on the front subby to stick the bumper to.

I don't understand why some people are reluctant to say a moke is a mini
It's a mini.

Some Moke Royalty look on Minis as just a parts source for their precious Mokes. :roll:

There are also a bunch of captive nuts on Moke front subbies to mount the sump guard.

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PostPosted: Wed Dec 12, 2012 4:04 pm 
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adamstuart wrote:
Only difference is there are two mounts on the front subby to stick the bumper to.

i was told it would make the mini sit higher, and was pointed out where the two bolt holes on the front were raised (was not present on my other subframe).
would have 'worked' i guess, if i'd fitted it.


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PostPosted: Wed Dec 12, 2012 4:11 pm 
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Early Mokes had the same as early Minis, but later on things started to be changed. The main difference with the front subframe is that there are additional mounts for the bumpers and captive bolts for the sump guard. There are also small differences in the front suspension arms and the rear radius arms are longer.

Apart from the rear radius arms, Mini parts will fit, either as they are or with minor modifications.

Tim

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PostPosted: Wed Dec 12, 2012 4:40 pm 
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Clutch-monkey wrote:
adamstuart wrote:
Only difference is there are two mounts on the front subby to stick the bumper to.

i was told it would make the mini sit higher, and was pointed out where the two bolt holes on the front were raised (was not present on my other subframe).
would have 'worked' i guess, if i'd fitted it.


I have never heard of anything like that.


In theory you could reshell a mini into a moke with 95% of the running gear bits fitting.

The only main difference I can think of that might not come to mind as different is the pedal box.

The obvious moke bits, seats, bumpers, lights, are obviously not going to cross over from a mini.
Most of the running gear will though.


Rear trailing arms you need moke ones, and big wheel moke handbrake cables.

Or you can use mini trailing arms, 10" wheels (oh yeah 8)), but you will have to get custom made cables. I shorted a set of 13" moke cables.

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PostPosted: Wed Dec 12, 2012 4:42 pm 
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drmini in aust wrote:
Some Moke Royalty look on Minis as just a parts source for their precious Mokes. :roll:



Hey, they should print a shirt with that on it!

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PostPosted: Wed Dec 12, 2012 4:55 pm 
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adamstuart wrote:
Clutch-monkey wrote:
adamstuart wrote:
Only difference is there are two mounts on the front subby to stick the bumper to.

i was told it would make the mini sit higher, and was pointed out where the two bolt holes on the front were raised (was not present on my other subframe).
would have 'worked' i guess, if i'd fitted it.


I have never heard of anything like that.


In theory you could reshell a mini into a moke with 95% of the running gear bits fitting.

The only main difference I can think of that might not come to mind as different is the pedal box.

The obvious moke bits, seats, bumpers, lights, are obviously not going to cross over from a mini.
Most of the running gear will though.


Rear trailing arms you need moke ones, and big wheel moke handbrake cables.

Or you can use mini trailing arms, 10" wheels (oh yeah 8)), but you will have to get custom made cables. I shorted a set of 13" moke cables.

the raised welded sections acted as a spacer to help lift the body to give clearance at the front, would have fitted fine to my mini but it would have rode higher or made the subframe sit lower in the body or something.
i can't find a picture of it, but i had both sub frames side by side when it was pointed out, and felt silly for not noticing it before assembling everything into it..
also can't seem to find a pic of it online :? but the workshop didn't make it sound unusual or anything.


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PostPosted: Wed Dec 12, 2012 4:58 pm 
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Clutch-monkey wrote:
the raised welded sections acted as a spacer to help lift the body to give clearance at the front, would have fitted fine to my mini but it would have rode higher or made the subframe sit lower in the body or something.
i can't find a picture of it, but i had both sub frames side by side when it was pointed out, and felt silly for not noticing it before assembling everything into it..
also can't seem to find a pic of it online :? but the workshop didn't make it sound unusual or anything.

Sounds like the difference between a dry frame and a hydro frame.


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PostPosted: Wed Dec 12, 2012 5:14 pm 
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Here is a dry, early moke subframe next to a hydro frame for comparison.

Image



If you're talking about the blocks welded onto of the front bar on the right hand subframe, they are bumper mounts.

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PostPosted: Wed Dec 12, 2012 5:57 pm 
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I think what he may be referring to is that some mokes had spacers under the cones making them ride higher to increase ground clearance.

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PostPosted: Wed Dec 12, 2012 6:35 pm 
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I think it's fairly safe to say that the subframes are the same except for the bumper mounts

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PostPosted: Wed Dec 12, 2012 6:39 pm 
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If you have the money to spend initially, rather than thousands upon thousands more by building one up, mine is for sale.


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PostPosted: Wed Dec 12, 2012 7:51 pm 
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I'm told a genuine Moke rear subframe also has extra strengthening plates in various places. BUt I've never looked closely at one to check. My Moke had no rear subframe when I got it, so I used a Mini Van one with Moke trailing arms.

For the front I previously ran a Mini Matic subframe andthat bolted straight in. But I have now switched to a regular Moke manual one.

Cheers,

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PostPosted: Wed Dec 12, 2012 8:46 pm 
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adamstuart wrote:
Rear trailing arms you need moke ones, and big wheel moke handbrake cables.


I use standard Mini trailing arms on my Moke with 13 inch wheels. No problem.

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PostPosted: Wed Dec 12, 2012 9:09 pm 
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Kyoda wrote:
adamstuart wrote:
Rear trailing arms you need moke ones, and big wheel moke handbrake cables.


I use standard Mini trailing arms on my Moke with 13 inch wheels. No problem.


You probably run 175/50R13 tyres on them??

To run larger diameter tyres (eg: 175/70R13) you still need the longer trailing arms.

Beware that using a large diamater 13 inch tyre with a Mini diff ratio (3.76 or lower number) makes acceleration glacially slow. Most Mokes run a 4.1, 4.2 or 4.3 diff. I managed to find a 3.9 diff which is a decent compromise.

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Greendale (near Ballan) VIC.
1971 Morris Mini Moke
1966 Austin Mini
1965 Morris Mini Traveller
1973 LR Series 3 88
2007 LR Freelander 2


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