In the process of replacing the bush in the back of the diff housing that the steady bar bolts to. All thats left in the diff housing is the outter steel bush. Gave it a couple a solid taps to drift it out, but it didn't look like moving and I didn't want to break anything. Any tips on extracting the bush???

Thanks

ps the cover is off the gearbox and on the bench

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Dalmeny

I think I cut mine out with the Dremel?
The new one is also hard to get back in

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1969 Cooper "S"
1967 Mini Deluxe
1973 Clubman Van (the fleet spare)
1978 ex 1275 LS ("Wizard" Eaton Supercharged)
2015 HSV GenF GTS(occasional drive & tow car)
2019 MINI F55 Cooper S

I left mine there and machined up a lurethane bush to fit inside it.
Unlike the original this is not allergic to oil.

Be careful if taking it out, I have seen people break the boss it's mounted in.
It's safer to use a bolt, nut and some spacers to push it out.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

Make a puller using a couple of sockets and a bolt.
A big socket on one side that the bush will fit into.
A small socket on the other side to push against the bush.
A bolt up the middle and away you go.

Thanks, I had a suspicion this wasn't going to be straight forward.

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Dalmeny

That's the best option if you can , the rubber ones are not like they used to be, the new ones are like they're made of black cheese.

What's 'lurethane'and where can you get it??

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Dalmeny

I made a puller from 2 machined bushes and a bolt too, made short work of it.

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Now with 2 extra ports!

it is polyurethane rod, available from plastics suppliers in rod form. I used blue or green I think coz I had some, but red will work too.
Colours denote the durometer hardness...

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

One that i have has flogged out the housing on one side . Any Suggestions gents ?

If it's just cracked, get it TIG welded.
If it's all busted or deformed, fit another diff housing- but check the bearing bores both sides for roundness and alignment before you assemble it all.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

You can buy a whole new bush for about $20- 25 I think.

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Now with 2 extra ports!

A new bush (it comes with that outer tube) is a lot less than that, but as said the rubber isn't oil resistant so it rots.
I think he's talking about the cast alloy housing?
If it's just the steel bush casing tube, either press it out as described above or dremel it, carefully.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

Yes cast alloy housing. Maybe have it welded and re drilled.