Hi,

I'm readying the Metro lump to go in our Clubman Estate and have a few questions:

1. This ring is not referred to in the Haynes manual. Does it go against the main oil seal, between it and the flywheel?



2. Can I use Loktite instead of the locking tabs for the flywheel housing bolts which go under the flywheel? Or make my own locking tabs from 1mm steel? Or do I need genuine items (which at this time of year will delay getting it running)?

3. I'm putting in a slightly lightened Mini flywheel instead of the verto clutch, which means the corresponding starter motor - any things to watch for?

I will undoubtedly have more questions as I go along, so thanks in advance for any assistance. One thing I want to do is build a stand so I can get it running and test it before fitting it to the car, since it's 1100 lump is still fine and in the car.

Cheers,

Simon aka Angusdog.

1. It goes against the oil seal, effectively it's an oil slinger.
2. Loctite 262 works fine. Use spring washers too if you want.
3. It's a bolt-in job, you need to use all the pre-Verto mechanism naturally.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

Cheers Doc! I'll crack on until I get to the next hurdle.

Should I use more or less RTV than the previous owner for the thermostat housing?



Unsurprisingly, there wasn't a thermostat in there.

Seriously though, can/should I drill through this for the heater valve?

Yep just drill a 1/2" hole there.

ROFL @ the thermo housing...

_________________
DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

You don't really need to have a stand to test run the engine. You can just hook everything up as it would be in the car and start it up on the ground. It won't fall over but it may want to wander away if you don't put your foot on it. Then when you are ready just drop it into the car pretty much complete.

Hey Angus, just be aware that those heads take a slightly odd-ball thermostat. The machined register for it is slightly smaller than the usual one. You can trim a stock one down to fit though.

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Re starting on the ground
I sat mine on an old blanket and connected the exhaust system which acted as a stabiliser to stop the engine falling over, even though I doubt it would fall.
Just keep the blanket away from the exhaust As it burns when the pipe gets hot

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1969 Cooper "S"
1967 Mini Deluxe
1973 Clubman Van (the fleet spare)
1978 ex 1275 LS ("Wizard" Eaton Supercharged)
2015 HSV GenF GTS(occasional drive & tow car)
2019 MINI F55 Cooper S

Thanks for the replies so far. I've lapped in the valves today; quite a satisfying job.

The head gasket is copper on one side and silver on the other. Which way up?

Copper ^^^

_________________
DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

Thanks Doc - this is like a 24/7 helpline!

"Dear Dorothy Dix".... (the oldies here would remember)

_________________
DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

And don't forget the 6 tubes of slazzo for the thermostat housing, rocker cover and manifold.

Right, three hopefully quick questions:

1. I have two flywheels. The one on the left is lightened (6.2kg) and the one on the right isn't (7.3kg) but the starter ring needs to be swapped. I tried heating it but my MAPP burner either didn't go hot enough or more likely I had little idea about what I was doing. Is this feasible? I will get a clutch workshop to swap if it is.



2. The sandwich plate under the metro thermostat housing points straight at the radiator. I could drill the holes in it larger and move it 120 degrees to the rear. I believe it should go to the bottom radiator hose. The metro lump doesn't run a bypass hose in the head. Or what's the best option?



3. Is is okay to fit a multi connector for the engine wiring? Not the starter motor obviously, but I need to connect the basic engine wiring to the car and that seems like the best option. Or should I solder them and fit heat shrink tubing over the joins.

Thanks for the advice so far - quite reassuring having this knowledge on tap.

Q1.
You will NOT get the ring gear off with heat. It's a shrink fit and very tight.
Spend A$50 and buy a new one.

What's wrong with the one that's on there, if worn you keep it & fit a Gemini starter instead (these mesh in from the front not the back)

_________________
DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.