Studs have removable nuts on top, you take them off to drop the subby. The studs stay in.
Bolts have a fixed hex head, you unscrew the whole thing out of the subby.

A stud has a thread on both ends (think head stud), a bolt has thread on 1 end only.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

ahh, gotcha.

so harley, you reckon the 2 rover type tower bolts wont fit.. ?

No, your subframe has been made from an aussie frame.
They didn't have the right hole in the top.

so these are the studs on my subframe, i cant seem to unscrew them to put into the new subframe ?



what can i do ?

You can try harder!

Put some penetrene on the studs where you can, and try and work the stud loose using some multigrips or something.

Can they be replaced/substituted with threaded rod?

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Respect mine and I'll respect yours.

No!

just came across these - http://www.minisport.com.au/prod1402.htm

whats the best way to install these without damaging them (leaving vicegrip marks all over them) ?

I'd do it the same way you get old studs out. Screw two nuts onto the top thread then tighten them against each other (not against the bottom of the thread, the nuts should be in the middle of the threaded section) once their tight against each other just use a spanner on the top nut and do it up like a bolt into the subframe. Once tight use two spanners to undo the nuts off each other and screw them off the stud.
When it doubt youtube it;
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=66ATKL4G04M

Hey morris, why not threaded rod? are the studs high tensile or something?

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Respect mine and I'll respect yours.

Yep, the studs are at least grade 5, or 8, and threaded rod these days is mostly chinese grade 4 rubbish. Unless you find hi tensile threaded rod.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

kenomini, as per my pic i did try that but couldnt get the nuts to lock together tight enough.. i kept taking both nuts off at the same time.. will give it another shot tomorrow though

Have you been spraying it with WD40 or something simular, if you spray it every now and then and then try to unscrew it later on it may be eaiser.
Also maybe try two locknuts or a spring washer or both or three nuts if they'll fit.

Have you tried heating the plate in the frame that the studs screw into? I don't know if it'll help but the expanding and contracting plate may just help crack the studs loose.

_________________
Respect mine and I'll respect yours.

After leaving the WD40 on it overnight, heat the top of the subby around the studs with a hot air gun, or butane torch, or oxy (carefully). This should break the rust (if any) free of the threads.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

well i tried using even more WD40 and i locked the nuts together as hard as i could, and still both nuts turned, i think for the sake of the pain ill just buy new ones..

The reason thenuts are turning is because the top threads are smaller - less friction.
The place to hold it is the thick section at the bottom with multigrips.

You'd think at least one would come out!