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 Post subject: No start HELP
PostPosted: Sun Jan 06, 2013 3:50 pm 
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Rover Cooper
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Joined: Sat Feb 03, 2007 9:15 am
Posts: 2401
Location: Werribee Vic. RETIRED - VMCI 3225 ,
SPI rover mini, battery fully charged, horn Headlights radio, indicators all run at full speed.

Turn the Key and 1/2 Rev, and out of puff....
sounds like a very flat pattery, but its full charged,

tried to push start, rotates freely but no kick..

what could it be....

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 Post subject: Help
PostPosted: Sun Jan 06, 2013 5:11 pm 
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1275cc
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Joined: Thu Dec 09, 2004 6:57 am
Posts: 3022
Location: JIMBOOMBA QLD.
Please someone with a crystal Ball. we need help here!

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Jan 06, 2013 5:18 pm 
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998cc
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Location: Blue Mountains
yes a crystal ball view would be good...but you are getting fuel?, have you tried pressing the fuel cut off inertia switch?

Another try could be you could try is, soak a cloth with petrol. During starting the engine, put the cloth to the inlet filter housing( to richen the fuel).
If this works well it could mean that your temp sensor/wiring got problem.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Jan 06, 2013 5:20 pm 
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848cc
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Joined: Mon Apr 23, 2012 9:14 pm
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Location: Wagga Wagga, NSW, 2650
So it's not cranking over? Try taking the spark plugs out and see if it cranks over normally.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Jan 06, 2013 5:21 pm 
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998cc
998cc

Joined: Sun Nov 06, 2005 5:41 pm
Posts: 860
Location: Adelaide
Could it be a faulty battery terminal or connection to the starter motor solenoid or the earth strap?
A little load on it, then it breaks down. Check if any of these points are getting hot to touch.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Jan 06, 2013 7:41 pm 
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Rover Cooper
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Location: Werribee Vic. RETIRED - VMCI 3225 ,
The starter engages for 1 second and then there is a clicking sound and nothing happens and the clicking stops

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 Post subject: hmm
PostPosted: Sun Jan 06, 2013 7:50 pm 
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1275cc
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Joined: Thu Dec 09, 2004 6:57 am
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Location: JIMBOOMBA QLD.
Start your checking where the power starts! at the Battery terminal connections. Make sure they are clean and tight.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Jan 06, 2013 7:59 pm 
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religious status
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Location: near Baulkham Hills, NSW
Put a voltmeter across the battery posts when you crank it. If it goes down to 8V or so the battery has an internal problem. It it stays around 12V you have a connection problem, somewhere.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Jan 06, 2013 8:03 pm 
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848cc
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Joined: Mon Apr 23, 2012 9:14 pm
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Location: Wagga Wagga, NSW, 2650
The clicking is the solenoid in the started motor opening and closing due to poor current. So my previous suggestion is pointless haha

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Jan 06, 2013 8:22 pm 
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Rover Cooper
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Location: Werribee Vic. RETIRED - VMCI 3225 ,
All terminals clean and tight. Just gave it another attempt.. Loud clicking from Starter motor,( Poss Solenoid) turns about 1/2 rev and starts clicking again, this repeats as long as I am turning the key...

How do you jump start from the engine bay and not from the boot, where does Pos and Neg go under the bonnet..???

This may bypass the bad connection and at least know it starts OK.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Jan 06, 2013 8:31 pm 
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SooperDooperMiniCooper ExpertEngineering
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Joined: Fri Apr 29, 2005 9:46 am
Posts: 18887
Location: Under the bonnet son!
It does sound like what Doc was saying, the voltage is dropping as you take charge from the battery which causes the solenoid to chatter like it has been. Your battery is either flat or its cactus.

You can connect your jump start leads from the battery in the boot no problems. If the battery terminals are even close to tight it won't carry on like that.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Jan 07, 2013 9:56 am 
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1360cc
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Joined: Tue Jun 01, 2004 3:41 pm
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Location: Special Tuning Sydney
Not sure if already mentioned, but a dead starter motor can also do what you're describing

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Jan 07, 2013 10:34 am 
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1275cc
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Joined: Mon Jun 07, 2004 5:09 pm
Posts: 2260
Location: Central Coast, NSW.
My Rover did this when the battery terminals had too much corrosion on them & the second time when the battery was dying.

Take the battery out and get it tested at your local auto shop. Most places are free.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Jan 07, 2013 10:39 am 
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1360cc
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Joined: Mon Aug 23, 2004 10:07 pm
Posts: 10653
Location: SE Melbourne
My money is on the battery. My car did the exact same clicky thing yesterday.
4 hours on charge and all good again.

If you're sure battery is fine, there's an earth strap from battery to body, and one in the engine compartment under the top engine stabiliser. This is a pain to get to, so to test if thats cone put a jumper lead on a steel part of the block and back to the body somewhere. Check terminals are tight too.


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 Post subject: Bat Flattery?
PostPosted: Mon Jan 07, 2013 12:32 pm 
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848cc
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Joined: Sat Jun 04, 2011 10:38 am
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Location: MinisintheGong [Somewhere on the South Coast]
If it cranks 1/2 a turn then its not the solenoid. Rule that one out. I think it also rules out condenser, coil etc. My money is on the battery connections, I know you say they are on firm and all that but behind or in the clamp it may be a breaking down connection. If you can get someone to wiggle each cable separately while you crank it you may find it works with the cable in one postiion but not in another. The fix is then the obvious. Hope it helps...

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