Ok, so i need a bit of help getting mine running properly.
Here's what i got..
When i start it cold with choke it coughs and splutters and backfires thru the carb a bit and eventually runs at higher revs with the occasional miss fire. If i leave the choke out about 1cm it stays like this but intermittently the revs rise and fall.
If i push the choke right in it coughs and backfires and eventually stalls.
I have set the static static timing, replaced the points. the plugs and leads are pretty new.

Any tips on what i need to do?
I'd like to get it running a bit better before i send it to someone for some fine tuning...

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Tim
Dusk Blue
1964 850

If it's not electrical, it's fuel.

Check your carb for vacuum leaks, and get the mixture right. Check the needle isn't bent or worn and that you have the correct oil in the dashpot.

A Mini is supposed to run badly off-choke when it's cold, but should settle down once its warm.

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Simon

The adventures of an owner builder in the Tallarook Ranges

Ok, next stupid question.

Is the 3 gauge central Speedo pod ment to just screw straight into the firewall, or does it have something its meant to mount to???

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Tim
Dusk Blue
1964 850

there are two types, the early one for a MK1 S, and the later one for a Mini K / MK2 Cooper S.

The type for a Mini K/MK2S is by far the most common, and yep, it just screws to the firewall. There are screw locators in the rear 'rim'. The gauges mount directly into the plastic

The type for a MK1 S has a metal bracket that sits behind it and holds the gauges, the black plastic shroud is just a cosmetic cover. If you have this type, I would gladly buy it off you and supply you with a replacement of the later type

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did I tell you that I won a trophy?

The Mk2 style one piece one (used on Mk2S, Mini K, and late `Matics) has 4 screws that go into captive nuts on the firewall.
If putting a 3 gauge binnacle into an early car I'd just drill the 4 holes, and put loose nuts on. If you are going to make a habit of removing it, I'd silver solder the nuts to the firewall.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

Ok,
Mine is the later type.
I just wasnt sure cos it seems really tight behind the speedo.

Which leads me to my next question...
Which way does the firewall hole cover go??
Is the hump bit supposed to give more space to the speedo, or carb filter??

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Tim
Dusk Blue
1964 850

more space for the carb filter, except cars with centre speedos didn't ever have the cover, so space wasn't an issue

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did I tell you that I won a trophy?

Oh really...

So the speedo cable just went thru the big hole...
That seems kinda silly.

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Tim
Dusk Blue
1964 850

New question about suspension...

I want it to sit nice and low with lots of -ve camber. I bought all the adjustable bits and the "longer" track rod ends, but when i try to just vaguely set it up, its like the steering rack is too short. just to have it low and wheels not toe out massively the track rod ends are wound out close to their limit..

Is there something I'm missing????

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Tim
Dusk Blue
1964 850

Depending how far you wanna go (toe in), you may need to run the longer steering tie rods.
Similarly, you may not have the correct steering arms on your uprights.
What brakes are you running?

Just drums all round.

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Tim
Dusk Blue
1964 850

Not really, allows easy acces to the rear of instrument panel for changing panel lights for a start. I think most later models had a vinyl backed sound insulation blanket that goes right accross the firewall which helps to keep moisture, dust and noise out. The speedo cable can pass thru a stir in it.

These blankets are available from most mini suppliers precut.

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68 Morris Cooper S Mk1 (*ex 78 1275 LS 4th last built, 70 Morris 1500 OHC & 70 MiniMatic)

I found this little guy in a box of parts i hadnt really sorted thru properly.


Am i right in saying that this is the 4 syncro type, which makes it worth holding onto ????

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Tim
Dusk Blue
1964 850

Yep it's a 4 synchro, you would need to get the rust off the short shaft end or the needle bearing won't like it.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

Yea, it is all just a bit of surface rust. some already came off with a little brush.
it was sitting in an old ice-cream bucket.

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Tim
Dusk Blue
1964 850