Rubbish Harley

Al

ARP supply their bolts bolts with a sachet of grease for this purpose. It stops the torque setting of the bolt being impeded by the variable levels of friction between the inner and outer threads.

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SooperDooperMiniCooperExpertEngineering

All garage work involves equal measures of enthusiasm, ingenuity and a fair degree of irresponsibility.

Absolutely the opposite is true. You must grease up threads and contact flat surfaces of the nut to ensure there is no binding and the torque figures you are applying are accurate.

Here is Graham Russell himself apply grease to said bolts:





BUT HEY What does he know??

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Lillee - 1969 Morris Mini K

That's not correct either. The opposite of what I said would suggest you grease the fasteners and increase the tightening torque.
That'll overstress the fasteners and break them for sure.

I'm not saying you can't use lubricant, its just that if you use the factory tighening figures and they're specific to having no lubricant you may need to make adjustments.

@harley,
If you don't at least oil them on assembly (I use LMM molygrease) you will not get accurate torque readings, particularly if you retighten hot, eg during a dyno running-in session. They will stick.

If they are ARP bolts and studs/nuts I use their lube supplied, which is pretty much moly anyway.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

Do you know the factory tightening figures by hand by any chance?

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http://www.flickr.com/by_dan
Current: 1970 Mini K 2014 Focus ST
Past: 93 Rover, 64 850, 97 Rover, 66 Deluxe, 66 Moke
81 Austin Estate, 2006 R53MCS, 66 Deluxe, 1978 Clubbie
2014 Land Rover Defender 90

early motors except Cooper S = 40lb/ft,
Cooper S = 42 lb/ft,
later motors with flanged nuts = 50lb/ft the factory said, but...
I do all of em to 42.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

cheers Doc!

I was able to get the stud out btw. Hammer and a sharp pointed item and some WD40

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http://www.flickr.com/by_dan
Current: 1970 Mini K 2014 Focus ST
Past: 93 Rover, 64 850, 97 Rover, 66 Deluxe, 66 Moke
81 Austin Estate, 2006 R53MCS, 66 Deluxe, 1978 Clubbie
2014 Land Rover Defender 90

Go to 25 on each first then 42, not straight to 42 with the first one

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Lillee - 1969 Morris Mini K

25>30>35>42 works for me.
work from the middle one diagonally outwards if you don't have a manual to follow.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

Probably irrelevant for this item But when I fitted my new ARP head studs for 1275 I recently built, the ARP kit came with a little sachet of grease and instructions to hand tighten the studs into the block

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1969 Cooper "S"
1967 Mini Deluxe
1973 Clubman Van (the fleet spare)
1978 ex 1275 LS ("Wizard" Eaton Supercharged)
2015 HSV GenF GTS(occasional drive & tow car)
2019 MINI F55 Cooper S

If the hole was NICE and clean, you might be able to spin it out with a small screwdriver or pin punch. You don't get to apply much force this way, but you might not need much either. I got away with this once, but it wasn't a head stud.

Good luck!

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'68 Deluxe w/Metro engine

Follow the directions. If the book says dry then fit them dry.
If the book says lube then lube them.
You don't just chuck lube onto everything, it doesn't work that way.
If you are fitting ARP studs/bolts follow their directions.

Holden red sixes you don't use oil, you use sealant because some of the bolts screw into the water jacket.
I have seen books that give both a wet and a dry torque figure, probably for those people that don't own an oil can.

When in doubt read the book.

See ^^^ Danny says it's OUT now.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

Hand tightening Studs is the correct procedure for any stud.

When you think about it, tightening a stud into a threaded hole achieves nothing..

A stud that has been driven into its mating thread by a spanner, stud driver or the like has in fact not been tightened at all, it has been screwed into its mating thread until the threads are Jammed together. Not a Good Situation.

Dave

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